
( Made Easy 




flDa&e lEasie Seriee 



DRESSMAKING 
MADE EASY 



BY 

ISABEL DE NYSE CONOVER 

II 




NEW YORK 
EDWARD J. CLODE 



^f 5 



COPYRIGHT, 1919, BY 
EDWARD J. CLODE 

Entered at Stationers* Hall 



(,11m; ^ 1^^ 



PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 



©CU529383 






^9 

INTRODUCTION 

It is the object of this book to set forth the 
quickest and best method for every operation, 
in sewing. It is a handy book of reference, 
where the making of any part of a garment 
can be easily looked up. 

The making of a whole garment may seem 
a difficult proposition but, when thought of 
in individual parts, it resolves itself into simple 
operations. It is merely a series of joining 
seams, turning edges for hems, and sewing 
pieces together for pockets and other trim- 
mings. Any woman who can run a sewing 
machine can join the pieces, if she knows how 
to place the goods and where to stitch. 

The things which have often seemed intri- 
cate in the methods of the experienced tailor 
and dressmaker are shown as they really are 
— simple means of procedure in sewing fol- 
lowed out step by step. Every question in 
the making of a garment is anticipated and 

[5] 



INTRODUCTION 



answered, from the cutting out of the pieces 
to the sewing on of the last hook and eye. In 
some cases there are other ways of accom- 
plishing the same or a similar result, but by 
actual and repeated tests the methods advo- 
cated in this book have proven the most satis- 
factory. It is based on years of experience in 
manufacturing patterns and making garments. 



[6] 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER PAGE 

I. Preparing the Material and Cutting 9 

II. Hand Sewing 20 

III. Seams and Their Uses 31 

IV. Tucks, Pleats and Fullness 38 

V. Closings and Plackets 46 

VI. Pockets 69 

VII. Sleeves and How to Hang Them . . 76 

VIII. Finishing 92 

IX. Trimming 1 1 1 

X. Be Your Own Designer 118 

XI. Coat Making 129 

XII. Fitting 137 



[7] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



CHAPTER I 

PREPARING THE MATERIAL AND 
CUTTING 

To Shrink Woolens or Cottons in Woolen 
Finish. — Spread out the material on a smooth 
surface and cover it with a wet cloth. Un- 
bleached muslin or an old sheet doubled makes 
an excellent shrink cloth. 

Dip the shrink cloth in clean cold water. 
Do not wring it dry. Squeeze out only part 
of the water and place the cloth on the mate- 
rial dripping wet. After the wrinkles have 
been smoothed out of both the fabric and the 
shrink cloth, roll the fabric and its wet cover- 
ing over a flat thin board. The wet cloth 
should be long enough to wrap several times 
around the outside of the fabric. Slow drying 
shrinks the material. After twelve hours un- 
wrap the material and press while damp. To 

[9] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



avoid shining the surface, press on the wrong 
side or cover the ^material with a cloth. 

Goods with selvedge should have the sel- 
vedge cut off before shrinking. The weave of 
the selvedge being different from the fabric 
may cause the selvedge to shrink more or less 
than the goods, making puckers along the 
edge. 

Woolens or cottons in woolen finish which 
are not shrunk before they are made will 
water spot and shrink unevenly when exposed 
to moisture. It is impossible to press properly 
unshrunk fabrics of this description. When 
the material is dampened and a hot iron ap- 
plied, the steam will shrink it in spots and 
may spoil the fit of the garment. 

To Shrink Wash Fabrics. — Soak the ma- 
terial in clean cold water and hang it in a 
shady place to dry or roll in a Turkish towel. 
It is slow drying that shrinks the goods. 
Press the material before it is entirely dry. 
It is important to shrink wash fabrics before 
making up. All cottons, linens and raw silks 
shrink when tubbed. 

[10] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



If the fabric is colored, put the proper in- 
gredient in the water to set the shade. 

To Set Blue, Brown or Brownish Red 
Shades. — Soak the material for two hours 
in sugar of lead water. Use one ounce of 
sugar of lead to every gallon of water. Allow 
the sugar of lead to dissolve thoroughly before 
placing the material in the water. This 
process will set the above mentioned colors 
permanently. 

To Set Green, Mauve, Purple or Purplish 
Red Shades. — Soak the material in alum 
water for ten minutes. The proper solution 
is one ounce of alum to one gallon of water. 

Proper Tools. — An electric motor attached 
to an ordinary sewing machine will double its 
capacity. 

Heavy shears cut a clean edge which is easy 
to follow in sewing. Cut with the points of 
the shears resting on the table. 

Art accurate tape measure is essential. A 
misfit is often due to the wrong size of pattern 
ordered according to an incorrect tape meas- 
ure. To test the tape, stretch it along a 

En] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



wooden ruler and determine if it is correctly 
marked. 

A tracing wheel makes a distinct mark easily 
followed in stitching if the material is of firm 
texture. It is an excellent means of indicat- 
ing the position of pleats, tucks, hems, etc. 

Steel pins do not mar the fabric like lead 
ones. If the pins have black heads they are 
easy to see and to pick up. 

Laying the Pattern on the Goods. — If all 
the pattern pieces are laid on the goods before 
any one piece is cut, they can be shifted 
around and placed to the best advantage. It 
saves material to plan the arrangement of the 
pieces instead of cutting haphazard one piece 
at a time. There are two ways of placing the 
pattern pieces on the goods or making a lay- 
out. One method is to spread the material in 
a single thickness and lay on each piece of the 
pattern twice, once for the right and once for 
the left side of the garment, and another way 
is to double the goods and lay on each pattern 
piece only once. 

// the material is spread in a single thickness 
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DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



place it face down on a smooth surface and 
arrange the pattern pieces on the wrong side 
of the goods, fitting them in to the best ad- 
vantage. Place the large pieces on first and 
fill in with the small pieces. 

Lay each pattern piece on twice, marking 
it in first for one side, then reversing it by 
turning it over for the other side. To avoid 
cutting two pieces for one side mark an X on 
the side of each pattern piece which corre- 
sponds to the left side of the finished garment, 
considering that the piece will be placed on 
the wrong side of the goods. Lay the pattern 
on the goods with the X marks showing and 
mark around each piece. This provides for 
the left side of the garment. Turn the pieces 
over and mark around them for the right side, 
in which case none of the X marks will show. 
Where both right and left sides of the garment 
are cut in one piece, as in the case of a one- 
piece back, lay the center-back edge of the 
pattern straight of the goods. Mark around 
all edges of the pattern except the center- 
back. Turn the pattern over, keeping the 

[i3] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



center-back on the same thread of the ma- 
terial, and mark around all edges again 
except center-back. 

The closest possible layout can be made 
when the material is spread in a single thick- 
ness. The pieces can be interlocked and large 
and small pieces worked in alongside of each 
other. For instance, the material may not be 
wide enough to cut two waist fronts, while a 
sleeve and front will just take the width. 

If the material is doubled crease it through 
the center bringing the face sides of the goods 
together and lay it on a smooth surface. Lay 
all the pattern pieces on, placing the large 
pieces on first. In this case, each pattern piece 
is laid on only once. As the material is double, 
two pieces are cut at the same time. Where 
the right and the left sides are to be cut in 
one piece, as a one-piece back, lay the center- 
back edge of the pattern on the fold of the 
material. 

// the material has an up and down, as some 
figured goods and fabric with nap, lay all the 
pattern pieces one way. Place the pattern 
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DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



so the top of each piece heads in the same 
direction. 

To Match Plaids. — Mark off the seam 
allowance on the pattern pieces. This gives 
the exact sewing line. After the pieces 
are laid on the goods, mark where the lines 
of the plaid will come on the sewing line. 
Shift the pieces until the lines of the plaid 
come at exactly the same place on the sewing 
line in pieces which join together. It is im- 
possible to match plaids with the seams on the 
pattern. The lines of the plaid may match at 
the outer edges and not come anywhere near 
meeting at the sewing line. 

Marking Around. the Pattern and Indicat- 
ing the Perforations. — After determining the 
proper position of the pieces weight them 
down, using ordinary paper weights or books. 
A pattern cannot be pinned to the material 
without dragging the material out of shape. 
Mark around the outside edges of the pattern 
with wax or chalk. 

If the material has sufficient body so the 
marks will not show through on to the right 

[15] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



side, wax or chalk mark the perforations for 
hems, pleats, etc. Lay the pieces for the two 
sides of the garment together. Place the pat- 
tern in position and mark perforations with 
the wax or chalk. Remove the pattern. Pass 
a pin through the two thicknesses of the ma- 
terial at each perforation. Turn the pieces 
over and wax or chalk mark the under piece 
at each pin. 

Awl marking is one means of indicating per- 
forations in materials having firm texture. 
Before removing the pattern from the goods 
place the point of the awl center way of the 
perforation and, with the awl in a perpendicu- 
lar position, bear sufficient weight on it to 
make a hole in the goods. 

Thread marking is used in delicate fabrics 
or materials of loose texture which will not 
hold the awl mark. Use thread which con- 
trasts in color to the material. Lay corre- 
sponding pieces together, that is, the right 
and the left fronts together, etc. Where the 
right and the left sides are cut in one, as in the 

case of a one-piece back, fold the piece through 
[i6] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



the center. Place the pattern in position and 
pass the needle perpendicularly through the 
perforation in the pattern and the two thick- 
nesses of the goods, bring it up through the 
perforation and repeat two or three times, 
keeping the stitches loose. Remove the pat- 
tern and pass the scissors between the two 
thicknesses of the goods clipping the threads. 
If the stitches have been taken sufficiently 
loose, the thread will be long enough to hold 
in the goods. 

Cutting. — Use heavy shears, keep the points 
on the table and always cut away from you. 
It is impossible to follow a line accurately 
when the wrist is bent. 

Cut just inside the lines which outlined 
the pattern. Since the pattern itself was in- 
side these lines they should be cut off. Cut 
accurately. An eighth of an inch added in 
one place and a quarter of an inch in another 
may come at the same place in joining and 
spoil the fit. 

Mark notches by slashing the goods for a 
depth of a quarter of an inch at each notch. 

[17] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




Fig. i 



This is better than cutting a notch as the slash 
is not so apt to fray. 

To cut a true bias fold the material diagon- 
ally, bringing a crosswise thread to a length- 
wise thread. Cut 
along the diagonal 
line. See Fig. i. 

Pressing. — Wool- 
ens and cottons in 
woolen or cotton finish 
should be covered 
with a damp cloth when pressed. Heavy 
muslin is the best fabric for a press cloth. 
Keep a basin of water handy and dip the 
press cloth in this, wringing it only partly 
dry. 

Under pressing simplifies sewing. Press 
each piece after it is cut and each seam after 
it is stitched. Hems, tucks, etc., are more 
easily and neatly stitched if they are pressed 
into position first. Press collars, cuffs and 
other trimming before attaching them to the 
garment. 

To steam out slight ease or fulness in woolen 
[i8] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



materials, cover with a wet cloth and press 
with a hot iron. Run a gather thread in the 
material and draw it up the desired amount, 
cover the material with a wet cloth and press 
with a hot iron. Bring the iron down squarely 
on the goods, rest it a second, then remove it, 
permitting the material to steam. Repeat the 
process. 

To remove shine on the surface of woolens 
caused by a too hot iron or wearing, steam 
the goods. Cover the goods with a wet cloth 
and press with a hot iron. Rest the iron 
and raise it alternately to steam the goods. 
While the goods is steaming brush it with a 
stiff whisk brush. 



[19] 



CHAPTER II 




-vj^w^ 



Fig. 2 



HAND SEWING 

Running Stitch. — This is the simplest of 

hand stitches. It is used in plain sewing, 

basting, blind stitching 
and for various other 
purposes. To form a 
running stitch, insert the 
needle in the goods, pass 
it along the under side 

and bring it out on the surface again. See 

Fig. 2. 

Back Stitch. — Where a firm stitch is de- 
sired for joining two pieces or a stay is wanted 

for running stitches, a 

back stitch is taken. 

To form a back stitch 

take a running stitch; 

then insert the needle 

at the point where it was 

first put in to form the running stitch. 

See Fig. 3. This makes a back stitch. 
[20] 




Fig. 3 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



Basting. — Long and short stitch is the type 
of basting used to hold seams and for attach- 
ing trimming. Take a long running stitch 
and a short running stitch and repeat three 
times; then take a back stitch. Always use 
a cotton which contrasts in color. It is easily 
seen and removed. 

In basting seams take a scant seam allow- 
ance. When stitching take the exact seam 
allowance which will bring the stitching to one 
side of the basting. If stitched in this manner 
the basting thread is easily removed, but 
should the stitching come on top of the bast- 
ing it is impossible to remove the basting 
thread without breaking the thread of the 
stitching. 

When basting before pressing use fine silk. 
It does not leave an imprint like a coarse 
cotton. 

Zigzag basting is used to hold interlinings in 
place. Take stitches crosswise of the ma- 
terial, inserting the needle each time directly 
below the place where it was first put in the 

goods. See Fig. 4. Zigzag basting holds the 

[21] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



material more firmly than long and short 
stitches. 

Felling. — This stitch is used in hemming, 
sewing in linings, etc. Thumb tack the ma- 
terial securely to the top 
of the sewing table and 
work toward you. Tnsert 
the needle diagonally in 
the surface of the upper 
fabric and take a short 
stitch. Bring the needle 
out through the surface of 
the under fabric and re- 
peat, being careful that the stitches do not 
show through on the right side of the goods. 
See Fig. 5. 

Blind Stitching. — Where two pieces of 
material are to be caught loosely together 
blind stitching is used. Bring the needle out 




Fig. 4 





[22] 



Fig. 5 



Fig. 6 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



through the upper piece and insert it directly 
below in the under piece, being careful that it 
does not show through on the right side of 
the goods. Continue taking these stitches at 
regular intervals. See Fig. 6. 

Overcasting. — To keep a raw edge from 
fraying whip it with over and over stitches. 
Insert the needle on the under 
side of the piece, bring it out 
on the outside and repeat at 
regular intervals. See Fig. 7. 

Padding Stitch. — Padding 
stitch is used in coat making 
to hold canvas interlinings in 
place. Pin the canvas in place and hold the 
garment canvas side toward you. Take a 
stitch crosswise of the material, passing the 
needle through the canvas and the material, 
but using care that the stitch does not show 
through on the right side of the goods. 
Make the stitch not over one quarter of an 
inch in length. Insert the needle directly 
below the first point of inserting and take a 
cross stitch as before. Repeat the stitches in 

[23! 




Fig. 7 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



parallel rows, reversing the slant of the be- 
tween stitches and bringing the cross stitches 
in each alternate row cen- 
ter way between the cross 
stitches of the first row. See 
Fig. 8. In working on 
revers or collars roll and 
shape the revers or collars 
into the position they are to 
take on the finished garment. 
- To space buttonholes evenly, 




Fig. 8 



Buttonholes. 

determine where the top and bottom button- 
holes will be placed and divide the space 
between by one less than the number of button- 
holes. For instance, if there are six button- 
holes to be placed in a space of five inches, 
divide five inches by five and it gives one inch 
which is the distance between buttonholes. 

To work a plain buttonhole mark the exact 
length of the buttonhole. Cut along the mark 
making a clean slash. Sew along the slash 
by hand, taking running stitches so that the 
material will not stretch. Start at the inside 

end of the slash and take the first stitch. 
[24] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



Work from the right side of the goods. Secure 
the thread on the wrong side near the end of 
the buttonhole and bring the needle and 
thread out through the slash onto the right 
side of the material. Insert the needle 
through the slash onto the wrong side and 
bring the point out on the right side of the 
goods, one sixteenth of an inch above the 





Fig. 9 Fig. io 

slash. Pass the thread over the back of the 
needle and under the point. See Fig. 9. 
Draw the needle through the goods and repeat 
the stitch until the buttonhole is worked 
across the top, around the front end, and across 
the bottom. Secure end of buttonhole with 
over and over stitches. Use button twist in 
making buttonholes in woolens or silk and 
coarse cotton thread on cotton goods. 

[25] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




To pad buttonhole whip a cotton cord to the 
edge. See Fig. 10. When the stitches are 
worked over this, the buttonhole will give a 
heavy ridged appearance. Padding the but- 
tonhole also strengthens it. 

Rounded end buttonholes are made in heavy 
fabrics where the buttons are large, as they 
give added space for passing the button 
through the buttonhole. To 
make a rounded end button- 
hole, mark the slash on the 
material, lay the material on 
a smooth surface and cut the 
slash with a sharp knife. At 
the front end of the buttonhole cut out a circle 
of material about an eighth of an inch across. 
See Fig. 1 1 . Use the point of the knife to cut 
out the circle, being careful not to stretch the 
buttonhole. Rounded end buttonholes are 
usually padded. Use the regulation button- 
hole stitch in working the buttonhole. 

To prevent buttonholes from puckering in 
sheer fabrics such as chiffon, place a drop of 
melted paraffin wax on the wrong side of the 
C26] 



Fig. ii 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



material in the exact spot where the button- 
hole is to be worked. Smooth the wax down 
and work the buttonhole as usual. When 
finished place a piece of Manila paper on the 
wrong side of the goods and press with a hot 
iron. The buttonhole will be perfectly smooth 
and all trace of the paraffin wax gone. 

Sewing on Buttons. — To mark position oj 
buttons lap buttonholes over button stand in 
finished position. Chalk or pencil mark under 
material through buttonholes. This gives ex- 
act position of buttons. 

Dress and underwear buttons are sewed flat 
on the material. Place pins in two holes of 






Fig. 14 

the buttons to keep it in position. Use a thin 
needle and strong thread. In a four-holed 
button the stitches may be crossed in the 
center, Fig. 12, worked in two bars, Fig. 13, 

C27] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



or worked in what is called a crow's foot, 
Fig. 14. After taking seven or eight stitches 
in each hole bring the needle out between the 
button and goods. Wrap the thread around 
the button several times. Pass the needle 
through onto the wrong side of the goods and 
secure the thread with several over and over 
stitches. 

To sew buttons on thin materials, such as 
chiffon, baste lawn to the under side of the 
material. In sewing on the button take the 
stitches through the chiffon and the lawn, cut- 
ting the lawn away close to the button after 
it is sewed in place. If desired, tape may be 
used in place of the lawn. 

Coat buttons are raised from the material. 
To do this place a match across the button 
and work the stitches over the match. Re- 
move the match after working seven or eight 
stitches. Pass the needle between the button 
and material. Pull the button out so the 
stitches are taut and wrap the thread between 
the button and material until the button 

stands up stiffly. Then pass the needle onto 
[28] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



the wrong side of the goods and fasten the 
thread with several over and over stitches. 

Tailor's Tacks. — Where a stay is needed 
at the corner of a pocket or at the end of a 
dart a tailor's tack is made. These vary in 
form. 

Bar tacks are made by taking four or five 
over and over stitches about one quarter of 





Fig. 15 



Fig. 16 



an inch in length, then covering these with 
over and over stitches worked close together. 
See Fig. 15. 

Arrowheads are made in the shape of a 
triangle. See Fig. 16. Bring the needle up 
at point A and take a short stitch at point C. 
See Fig. 16 for position of needle. Insert the 
needle at point B and bring it out on the 
upper line of the triangle just to the side of 

[29] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



the first stitch. Take a stitch at the bottom 
of the triangle just above the first stitch and 
insert the needle on the upper line, near point 
B and next to the last stitch. Bring it out on 
the upper line near point A and close to the 
first stitch. Repeat until the triangle is com- 
pletely covered. 



[30] 



CHAPTER III 



SEAMS AND THEIR USES 

Open Seams. — When the seam is stitched 
only once and the raw edges are pressed apart, 
it is called an open seam. This 
is used in medium and heavy 
weight materials where a flat 
finish is desired, as in the seams 
of skirts or the underarm and 
shoulder joinings of woolen 
dresses. To form an open seam, 
lay the two pieces of the ma- 
terial with the right or face side 
of the goods together and stitch, taking the 
exact seam allowance. Press the seams open. 
See Fig. 17. 4 

The edges of the seam can be finished with 
overcasting, pinking or binding. See Over- 
casting, page 23. 

Pinking is formed by cutting small triangu- 
lar shaped notches in the edge. Edges cut 

[31] 




Fig. 17 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



in this manner do not fray as readily as a 
straight edge. 

If binding is used, bind the edge of each 
piece separately before joining. See Binding, 
page 113. 

French Seams. — A French seam has the 
edges doubled in so no raw edges show. This 
type of seam is used on blouses, wash dresses, 
infants' clothes and lingerie. 
To form a French seam lay the 
two pieces of the material to be 
joined with the wrong sides of 
the material together and stitch 
the length of the seam, running 
the stitching one eighth of an 
inch from the edge. Turn the 
pieces wrong side out and crease along the 
stitching. Stitch again the length of the 
seam, running the stitching one quarter of 
an inch from the creased edge. See Fig. 18. 
This takes the regulation seam allowance of 
three eighths of an inch. If more or less is 
allowed for the seam, make the stitchings 
correspondingly farther or nearer to the edge. 
[32] 




DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



Double Stitched Seams. — If a second 
stitching is placed just back from the joining, 
the seam is called a double stitched seam. 
Coat and skirt seams are often double stitched 
for trimming. Lay the two pieces to be 
joined with the right sides of the material 
together and stitch the length of the seam, 
running the stitching in a 
seam's width. If the garment 
is unlined overcast the raw 
edges, see Overcasting, page 23, 
or bind the raw edges, insert- 
ing both raw edges in the one 
binding. See Binding, page 
113. Turn both edges toward 
the side where the second 
stitching is to be placed. Baste, press and 
stitch the length of the seam, stitching on 
the right side of the garment. See Fig. 19. 
The second stitching is usually placed from 
one eighth to one quarter of an inch from 
the seam. If the stitching is placed the 
exact width of the machine foot from the 
seam the foot can be used as a gage in stitching. 




Fig. 19 



[33] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




Fig. 20 



Lap Felled Seams. — When both edges of 
the seam are turned under and the seam 
is stitched flat, it is called lap 
felled. Men's shirts and under- 
wear and women's tailored blouses 
are made in this manner. Lay the 
two pieces to be joined with the 
wrong sides together. Place the 
under piece so it extends one 
quarter of an inch beyond the 
upper piece. Stitch the length of the seam 
running the stitching one quarter of an inch 
from the edge of the upper piece. See Fig. 20. 
Open up the two pieces and crease along the 
joining. Turn under the free edge 
and stitch it flat over the upper 
piece. See Fig. 21. This makes a 
seam allowance of three eighths of 
an inch. If the seam allowance 
varies, place the first stitching cor- 
respondingly nearer or farther from 
the edge. 

Slot Seam. — When the seam is under 
faced it is called a slot seam. Seams of this 
[34] 




Fig. 21 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



type are used for trimming purposes in medium 
weight materials. Fold under the seam al- 
lowance on both pieces to be joined and press 
the edges. Cut a strip of material a half 
inch wider than twice the seam allowance. 
Bind both edges of this piece. See Bind- 
ing, page 113. Mark the center of the strip 
with chalk or a tracing wheel. 
Place the two pieces to be joined 
on top of the strip of material, 
bringing the folded edge of each 
piece to the center of the strip. 
Pin or baste in position and 
stitch the length of the seam 
twice, running the stitchings one 
quarter of an inch back from the folded edge 
of each piece. See Fig. 22. 

Hemstitched Seams. — Where a light effect 
is desired in ladies' blouses, children's cotton 
dresses and lingerie the seams are hem- 
stitched. Lay the two pieces to be joined 
with the right sides together and stitch the 
length of the seams, running the stitching a 
seam's width back from the edge. Fold both 

[35] 




Fig. 22 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



raw edges back one way, baste in place and 
press. Have the garment machine hem- 
stitched over the exact joining. Cut away 
the raw edges close to the hemstitching. See 
Hemstitching with an Ordinary Sewing Machine, 
page 115. 

Seam Beading. — Tape embroidered to 
simulate hemstitching is called seam beading. 
This gives an effect similar to hemstitching 
and is used on underwear and infants' gar- 
ments. Cut off all but one eighth of an inch 
seam allowance on the pieces to be joined. 
French seam one edge of the seam beading to 
one piece and French seam the edge of the 
beading which is free to the other piece. 
Make the French seam not more than one 
eighth of an inch wide when finished. It 
takes three sixteenths of an inch allowance 
to make a French seam one eighth of an inch 
wide. With only one eighth of an inch seam 
allowance the pieces would be short if joined 
directly together. However, the seam bead- 
ing coming between adds the extra amount, 
making the size correct. If the seam beading 
[36] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



is wider than one eighth of an inch finished, 
cut off proportionally more from the pieces 
to be joined. 



[37] 



CHAPTER IV 

TUCKS, PLEATS AND FULLNESS 

Pin Tucks. — The narrowest tuck that can 
be made is called a pin tuck. They are used 
as a trimming in sheer fabrics. 

To jorm a pin tuck crease the material, 
bringing the wrong sides together and stitch 
about one sixteenth of an inch from the 
creased edge. Where it is possible, pin tuck 
the material before cutting the garment out. 
If the piece is pin tucked after it is cut, more 
or less may be taken up than is allowed for, 
making the garment consequently small or 
large. See How to Use a Block Waist Pattern, 
page 1 1 8. 

Side Tucks. — If any portion of a garment 
is caught together with stitching, making a 
fold of goods, and the fold turned to one side 
and pressed flat, it forms a side tuck. Side 
tucks are used as trimming in thin and me- 
dium weight materials. They vary in width. 
[38] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




Fig. 23 



To form a side tuck crease the material along 
the line which will be the free edge of the 
tuck, bringing the wrong sides of 
the material together. Press the 
crease and mark the stitching line 
with chalk or wax or use a sewing 
machine foot with a gage in stitch- 
ing. Stitch through the two 
thicknesses of the material, plac- 
ing the stitching the width of the tuck back 
from the edge. See Fig. 23. Fold the tuck 
into the finished position and press. 

To make a gage for spacing a group of tucks 
cut a straight piece of cardboard and notch 
the cardboard at the outer edge and sewing 
line of each tuck as they will ap- 
pear when finished. Cut the lower 
edge of the notch at right angles 
to the edge of the cardboard and 
the upper edge of the notch diag- 
onally. See Fig. 24. 

Side Pleats. — Where material 
is lapped over to take out fullness it forms 
a side pleat. Side pleats are used in the 

[39] 




Fig. 24 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




Fig. 25 



top of skirts, bloomers, etc., where fullness is 
desired but where bulkiness is to be avoided. 
To form a side pleat determine the amount 
of material to be taken up in the pleat. Mark 
this space on the right side of the goods, plac- 
ing the first mark at the fold 
of the pleat. Bring the two 
marks together forming the pleat. 
See Fig. 25. 

Sojt pleats are pleats which are 

unstitched. They are used in 

pliable materials. 

In stitched side pleats the needle passes 

through the three thicknesses of the material. 

The stitching is placed any desired distance 

from the fold. 

Box Pleats. — A box pleat is two side pleats 
turned away from each other. These are 
used as trimming on waists, skirts and chil- 
dren's dresses. Determine the amount of 
material to be taken up in the pleat. Mark 
the amount on the material and fold the goods 
center way on the marks, bringing the wrong 
sides of the goods together. Stitch the 



[40] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




Fig. 26 



finished width of the pleat back from the 
edge of the fold, which will be along the 
marks. Open up the material, 
bring the fold center way over 
the stitching and press. If de- 
sired stitch down either side of 
the pleat. See Fig. 26. 

Double Box Pleats. — Where 
side pleats are added either side 
of a box pleat and turned away from the box 
pleat, it is called a double box pleat. The 
effect is of one box pleat on top of another. 
This type of pleat is used in children's dresses 
and ladies' skirts. 

Simulated Box Pleats. — If two side pleats 
are turned away from each other with a space 
between, they form a simulated box pleat. 
It does not take as much material as a box 
pleat but gives the same appearance. Deter- 
mine where the center of the simulated box 
pleat is to be. Measure out half the width 
of the simulated box pleat at either side 
and fold under shallow side pleats. See 
Fig. 27. 



[41] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



Inverted Box Pleat. — When two side pleats 
are turned toward each other and the edges 
of the two pleats meet, they form an inverted 
box pleat. These are used in skirts and 
children's dresses. To form an inverted box 
pleat first determine the amount of material 





Fig. 27 Fig. 28 

to be taken up in the pleat. Mark the amount 
on the material to be pleated and place an- 
other mark center way of the space. Crease 
the material along the outside lines and bring 
these folded edges to the center line. See 
Fig. 28. It is a matter of choice whether or 
not the pleat is stitched. If the pleat is 
stitched, run the stitching parallel to the 
creased edges and back any desired amount 
from the edges. 

Plain Shirring. — Where the material is 
gathered in parallel rows it forms plain 
[42] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




Fig. 29 



shirring. Shirring is used as trimming in 

thin goods or to regulate the hang of fullness 

in heavy materials. Make a cardboard gage 

to space shirring. See Fig. 24. Mark the 

lines where the shirring is to be placed. Run 

the shirr strings in by hand, taking running 

stitches and using 

a fine needle and 

fine thread knotted 

at the end. See 

Fig. 29. After the 

shirring has been 

drawn up the proper amount, fasten the 

shirr string securely with over and over 

stitches. 

To reinforce shirring, baste lawn to the 
wrong side of the material along the lines of 
shirring after the shirring has been drawn up. 
Machine stitch over the lines of shirring or 
secure the lawn to the material with back 
stitches worked by hand. See Back stitch, 
page 20. After the lawn is fastened to the 
goods cut it away between the lines of 
shirring. 

[43] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



Tuck Shirring. — When a small tuck is 
taken up on each line of shirring it is called 
tuck shirring. This particular trimming is 
suitable only for sheer goods. To form tuck 
shirring, crease along each line of shirring, 
bringing the wrong sides of the material to- 
gether. In running in the shirr strings, place 
the stitches back a little way from the creased 

edges. Spacing the 
shirr string back an 
eighth or a quarter of 
an inch from the edge 
gives a good effect. 
When the shirr strings 
are drawn up, there is a tuck or heading formed 
on each line of shirring. See Fig. 30. Tuck 
shirring may be reinforced as described on 
page 43- 

Cord Shirring. — If the material is gathered 
up on a cord at each line of shirring, it forms 
a cord shirring. Cord shirring makes attrac- 
tive trimming in medium weight as well as 
sheer goods. To form cord shirring, crease 
the material as for a tuck shirring, inserting a 
[44] 




Fig. 30 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



cotton cord along the crease, taking the 
stitches just in back of the cord and shirring 
the material up on the cord. See Fig. 31. 

If a sewing machine is equipped with a one- 
sided foot, the cord can be stitched in by 
machine. Place the material in the machine 
so the cord comes on the side of the needle 
which is not covered 
with the foot. After 
the stitching is fin- 
ished shirr the ma- 
terial up on the cord. 

The cotton cord 
used for cord shirring is called cable cord. 
It comes in various sizes. 

To Keep Shirring Equally Distributed. — 
Divide the material to be shirred into four 
equal parts and use separate shirr strings for 
each part. 




Fig. 31 



[45] 



CHAPTER V 

CLOSINGS AND PLACKETS 

Closings with Hems. — When there is an 
allowance of material beyond the finished edge 
of the closing and it is turned back onto the 
wrong side of the garment, it forms a hem. 

Unstitched hems are held with buttons and 
buttonholes. Before folding under the hems, 

bind the raw edges, 
see Binding, page 
113, or turn off a 
seam's width on 
each raw edge, 
stitch the length of 
the hems running 
the stitchings one 
eighth of an inch 
from the edges. Then turn under the hems, 
creasing along the finished edges of the clos- 
ing, work buttonholes in one hem and sew 
buttons to the other. See Fig. 32. 
[46] 




Fig. 32 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



Stitched hems are formed in the same way, 
except that they are stitched the hem's width 
back from the edge or felled by hand. See 
Felling, page 22. 

Facings and Extensions. — Where there is 
only a seam allowance at the closing and the 
appearance of a hem is desired, finish the 
right side of the opening with 
a facing and the left side with 
an extension. Decide how 
deeply the closing is to lap. 
Cut the facing the width of 
the lap, allowing seams extra. 
Face the right side. See Fac- 
ing, page 92. 

Lay the extension with the 
right side next to the wrong side of the 
material, and stitch the length of the clos- 
ing, running the stitching a seam's width in 
from the edge. Turn under the free edge of 
the extension a seam's width, fold the exten- 
sion through the center, press and stitch the 
free edge of the extension over the raw edges. 
See Fig. 33. In closing, the right side, which 




Fig. 33 



[47] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



is the faced side, laps over the left side and 
hides the extension. 

Blind Closings. — Where the buttons and 
buttonholes, hooks and eyes or snaps are 
hidden the closing is called a blind closing. 
Whether the closing is finished with hems or 
a facing and extension, it can be made a blind 
closing by adding an underlap to the right- 
hand side. 

As the underlap will be double, cut it twice 
the width of the finished hem or facing, allow- 
ing seams extra. Fold the un- 
derlap through the center, press 
and work buttonholes or sew 
on hooks or snaps. Cut the 
seam allowance off the back 
edge of the hem or facing to 
make the closing less bulky. 
After the hem is turned back 
onto the wrong side, or the fac- 
ing stitched to the edge of the garment and 
turned back, insert the raw edges of the 
underlap under the free edges of the hem or 
facing. See Fig. 34. Baste the length of the 




Fig. 34 



[48] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




Fig. 35 



closing. Turn the underlap back onto the 
hem. Press, baste and stitch through the 
underlap, the hem, the turned 
under edges of the underlap and 
the outside garment. Run the 
stitching the length of closing, 
stitching the width of the hem or 
facing back from the edge. See 

Fig- 35- 
Closing Under Tucks. — When 

the tuck comes at a seam, bind 

the raw edge of the tuck before stitching 

the tuck in place, see Binding, page 113, 

and face the portion of the material which 

extends under the [tuck. See Facing, page 

92. 

If the tuck comes midway of a piece and 

there is to be a closing under the tuck for a 

certain depth, slash the material under the 

tuck for the desired depth, placing the slash 

a seam's width beyond the stitching of the 

tuck. See Fig. 36. Bind the raw edge of the 

tuck before stitching. Finish the under edge 

of the opening with a facing. Lay the facing 



[49] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




Fig. 36 



with the right side of the facing next to the 

right side of the material and stitch the length 
of the closing, running the 
stitching a seam's width in 
from the edge. Let the facing 
extend beyond the material far 
enough to reach the stitching 
of the tuck. Then fold the 
facing onto the wrong side. 
Turn under the free edge of 

the facing a seam's width and stitch the 

facing to the wrong side of the garment, 

placing the stitching so it 

will come just under the 

edge of the tuck when the 

tuck is brought over into 

the finished position. See 

Fig. 37. At the bottom of 

the closing fasten the fac- 
ing to the under side of the 

tuck with over and over 

stitches. 
Box Pleat Closings. — A box pleat closing 

is one having a box pleat on the top edge of 
[50] 




Fig. 37 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



the closing. The under edge of the closing is 
usually finished with a hem or facing. 

To form the box pleat on the 
edge of a closing turn under the 
raw edge a seam's width. De- 
termine the amount of material 
to be taken up in the box pleat. 
Mark this space on the material, 
measuring in from the seam. 
Bring the edge with the seam 
turned off to this mark. Work- 
ing from the wrong side of the 




Fig. 38 



garment, 

stitch the length of the closing. See Fig. 38. 
Flatten the loop of material thus formed 
by placing the center of the loop 
over the line of stitching. Press 
and run a stitching either side of 
the pleat. See Fig. 39. Stitch- 
ing placed from an eighth to a 
quarter of an inch from the edge 
gives a good effect. 
Simulated Box Pleat Closings. — 
These give the same appearance as a box 
pleat closing but to avoid having the seam at 

[51] 




Fig. 39 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



the center of the pleat the raw edge is thrown 
to one side. Form the simulated box pleat 
along the edge of the material, then lay on 
the pattern and cut the piece. In the case 
of a blouse bring the center-front of the 
blouse pattern to the center of the pleat. 

To form a simulated box pleat 
two inches wide, measure in from 
the edge of the material two 
inches and make a mark at the 
top and bottom of the piece; 
Measure two inches beyond these 
first marks and mark again at top 
and bottom. Crease the material 
along the first marks, bringing the 
wrong sides of the material together. Press 
and stitch the length of the piece, running 
the stitching from an eighth to a quarter of 
an inch back from the edge. See Fig. 40. 
Crease along the second line of marks, bring- 
ing the wrong side of the material on top of 
the portion folded under in the first creas- 
ing. Press the edge and stitch from top to 
bottom of the piece, running the stitching 
[52] 




Fig. 40 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




Fig. 41 



the same distance from the edge that the 

first stitching was placed from the edge. 

This stitching will be through 

three thicknesses of material. See 

Fig. 41. The effect is similar to 

a box pleat. See Fig. 42. If a 

wider or narrower pleat is desired, 

vary the spacing of the fold lines 

correspondingly. 
Applied Box Pleat Closings. — 

If an extra piece of material is 

added at the closing to give the appearance 

of a box pleat, the closing is called an ap- 
plied box pleat closing. 

To form an applied box pleat 
closing two inches wide, cut a 
straight piece of material three 
and one quarter inches wide. 
Lay the strip along the edge of 
the material with the right side 
of the strip next to the wrong 
side of the garment. Stitch the 

length of the piece, running the stitching 

the regulation seam allowance — three eighths 




Fig. 42 



C53] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




of an inch from edge. Crease the strip of 
material one quarter of an inch beyond the 
joining, folding it along this 
creased line onto the right 
side of the piece. Stitch 
one quarter inch from this 
edge. Fold under the raw 
edge, press and stitch it flat 
to the goods, running the 
stitching one quarter of an 
inch in from the edge. See 
Fig. 43. Lay on pattern and 
cut after pleat is formed. 
Closings at Shoulder, Armhole and Under- 
arm. — Closings of this description should be 
finished with shaped facings and extensions. 
To cut the facing and extension so they will 
exactly fit, use the front body pattern as a 
guide. A facing or extension of this type 
should measure about three quarters of an 
inch wide, finished, and be cut one and one 
half inches wide to allow for seams. Measure 
back one and a half inches from shoulder, 
armhole and underarm edges on front body 



Fig. 43 



[*t] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



pattern. Lay the pattern on another piece 
of paper. Mark around the outside edges 
at the neck, shoulder and underarm and run 
a tracing wheel over the marks which were 
placed one and one half inches back from the 
edge. Remove the pattern and cut out the 
piece thus marked. This gives a pattern for 
the facing and extension. Cut one piece for 
a facing and two pieces for an extension. 
Join the facing to the front of the garment 
at the shoulder, armhole and underarm. See 
Facing, page 92. 

Lay the two pieces for the extension with 
the right sides together, and stitch around 
the outside edges, taking the regulation seam 
allowance — three eighths of an inch. To avoid 
bulkiness cut off the seam close to the stitch- 
ing. Slash the raw edges at the corner and 
turn the extension right side out. Turn in 
free edges of the extension a seam's width, 
and press. Insert the raw edges of the back 
shoulder, the sleeve and the back underarm 
between the two thicknesses of the extension. 
Stitch around the closing, running the stitch- 

[55] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



ing on the extension, and stitching through 
the two pieces of the extension and the in- 
serted edges of the back and sleeve. 

Slash Closings with Pleats Below. — In- 
fants' dresses are often finished with a slash 
at the center-back and pleats below. To 
allow for such a closing the center-back of 






Fig. 44 Fig. 45 Fig. 46 

the pattern must be laid one inch from the 
fold of the material. Slash the fold the de- 
sired depth and cut crosswise slashes at the 
bottom three quarters of an inch wide. See 
Fig. 44. Turn a hem either side of the 
lengthwise slash, creasing the material three 
quarters of an inch from the raw edges. 
See Fig. 45. Turn under the raw edge one 
quarter of an inch and machine stitch or fell 
L56I 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




Fig. 47 



the hem by hand. See Felling, page 22. 

The hems will be one half inch wide, finished. 

Lap the right hem over the left hem, and lay 

the material at the bottom of 

the slash into small pleats. 

See Fig. 46. Tack these folds 

securely in place with over 

and over stitches on the wrong 

side of the garment. See Fig. 

47. 

Continuous Facings. — When 
both sides of a vent are finished 
with a strip of material, it is called a con- 
tinuous facing. This finish is used for vents 
in drawers and petticoats and on plackets in 
children's dresses and ladies' skirts where 
there is fullness at the waist line. 

For a continuous facing that is to finish 
three quarters of an inch wide, cut the ma- 
terial two and one quarter inches wide and one 
half inch longer than twice the depth of the 
placket. 

If it is a slash that is to be finished with 
the continuous facing, place the right side of 

[57] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



the facing next to the wrong side of the ma- 
terial, and with the edge of the facing even 
with the edge of the material at the top but 
with the facing extending nearly a seam's 
width beyond the edge of the slash at the 
bottom. Stitch down one side of the slash 
and up the other, keeping the stitching a 
seam's width in from the edge of the facing. 
The seam taken on the 
slashed edge will narrow to 
almost nothing at the bot- 
tom of the slash. Turn 
under the free edge of the 
facing three eighths of an 
inch, fold the facing through 
the center and stitch the 
free edge over the raw edge on the right side. 
See Fig. 48. 

If the placket comes at the joining of two 
pieces, close the seam below the placket. At 
the bottom of the placket slash the raw edges 
to the depth of the seam. Take several over 
and over stitches to keep the seam from rip- 
ping below the placket. In placing the facing 
[58] 




DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



on the goods, keep the edges even at the top 
and bottom, and take the regulation seam 
allowance at all points. 

Skirt Plackets. — In gathered skirts the 
placket is usually finished with a continuous 
facing. 

Plackets on plain seams in fitted skirts 
have a facing on one side and an extension 
on the other. Unless reversed for trimming 
purposes, the right side of the placket laps 
over the left and is faced. 

Use the skirt pattern as a guide in cutting 
the facing. Mark the depth of the placket 
on the skirt gore which comes to the right of 
the placket. Measure back from the edge 
of the pattern two and three quarter inches 
and draw a line at this point from top of 
skirt to a seam's width below placket. Lay 
the pattern on another piece of paper. Mark 
the outline at the top and side, and run a 
tracing wheel over the line which is two and 
three quarter inches back from the edge. 
Use this pattern as a guide in cutting the 
facing. 

[59] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



In woolens or cottons which stretch easily, 
tape the edge of the skirt at the right of the 
placket. Lay the tape on the wrong side of 
the material a seam's width in from the edge. 
See Taping, page 130. After the tape is 
caught to the material, turn the raw edge 

of the seam onto the 
tape and tack it in 
place. Press, -and sew 
on the hooks, keeping 
them slightly in back 
of the edge. Turn 
under the back and 
bottom edges of the 
facing a seam's width, 
press and stitch along 
the folded edges. Turn under the front edge 
of the facing a seam's width and fell the front 
edge to the skirt along the placket. See 
Fig. 49. Baste the facing across the top to 
the top of the skirt. 

If the left side of the placket has the exten- 
sion cut on it, as some skirt patterns are 

made, face this extension with material cut 
[60] 




Fig. 49 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



the same shape as the outside. Turn under 
the seam allowance at the back edge of the 
facing and stitch along the edge. Place the 
facing on top of the extension with the right 
side of the facing next to the right side of 
the extension, and stitch at the side and 
across the bottom. To 
avoid bulkiness, cut the 
seam off diagonally at 
the corner. Turn the fac- 
ing onto the wrong side 
of the skirt. Baste the 
facing to the skirt at 
the top, and press. 

At the bottom of the 
closing catch the facing 
on the right hand side of the closing to the 
extension on the left. Use over and over 
stitches. Sew eyes to the extension to 
match hooks on the right side of the skirt. 
See Fig. 50. 

If there is no extension cut on the left 
side of the skirt, use the facing pattern as a 
guide to cut two extension pieces. Lay the 

[61] 




Fig. 50 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



two extension pieces with the right sides to- 
gether and stitch across the sides and bottom. 
To avoid bulkiness, cut off the seams diagon- 
ally at the corners. Turn right side out, 
turn in the free side edges a seam's width and 
press. Insert the raw edge of the skirt 
between the two edges of the extension, and 
stitch the length of the placket. Lap the 
right side over the left as described before. 

Plackets at center-front have an underlap 
and the seam below the placket is pressed 
open. Cut the material for the underlap 
three and three quarters inches wide and one 
half inch longer than the depth of placket. 
The lining for the underlap should be the same 
shape. Lay the lining on the right side of 
the underlap and stitch down the sides and 
across the bottom, running the stitching a 
seam's width from the edge. To avoid bulki- 
ness cut off the seam diagonally at the 
corners. Turn the underlap right side out. 
Turn under raw edges a seam's width and 
press. Stitch around the outside again to 

make the underlap firmer. Face right side of 
C62] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



skirt at placket as described in Plackets on 
Plain Seams, page 59. 

Place center of underlap a seam's width 
from left edge of placket with the right side 
of the underlap next to the right side of the 
skirt. Working from the wrong side of the 
skirt, stitch from top to bot- 
tom of the placket, running 
the stitching a seam's width 
in from the raw edge of the 
placket. Turn the under- 
lap onto the wrong side of 
the skirt. Catch the lower 
edge of the underlap to the 
skirt, using care that the 
stitches do not show through 
onto the right side of the goods. See Fig. 51. 

The Fly on Boys' Trousers. — Trousers 
with drop seat have a small fly in front and 
the seam closed above. In stitching the front 
and crotch seam leave a space, three and 
one half inches, open at the lower front. 
Use the front trousers pattern as a guide in 
cutting the facing and fly pieces. These 




Fig. 51 



[63] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



should be crescent-shaped. Indicate the 
points on the pattern where the seam is 
left open. Centerway between these points 
measure back on the pattern three inches. 
Draw a half circle touching the point three 
inches back from the edge and the points 
where the seam is open. Lay the pattern on 
another piece of material, make the outline 
of the crotch seam and go over the half 
circle with a tracing wheel. Remove the 
pattern and add a seam beyond the half 
circle. This gives a pattern for both fly and 
facing. Cut three pieces, two for the fly 
which is sewed to the right side of the trousers 
and one piece for facing the left side of the 
trousers. 

Bind the outer edges of the facing piece. 
See Binding, page 113. The left front of the 
trousers is faced across the opening. Lay the 
facing piece on the face side of the material. 
Be sure that it is placed so the curve of the 
crotch seam matches in the facing piece and 
the trousers. Stitch the facing to the trousers, 
running the stitching a seam's width in from 
[64] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



the edge across the opening. Turn the fac- 
ing onto the wrong side and fell in place at 
outer edges. See Felling, page 22. 

Lay the two pieces for the fly with the 
right sides of the material together. Stitch 
around the outer edges, running the stitching 
a seam's width in from the edge and turn 
right side out. Press the fly 
and lay on top of the front of 
the trousers which comes to 
the right of the opening, match- 
ing edges. Stitch the under 
edge of the fly to the trousers 
across the opening, running the 
stitching a seam's width in from 
the edge. Turn the fly inside the trousers, 
turn under the free edge of the fly a seam's 
width and hand fell it in place. See Fig. 52. 

Open-front trousers have a fly from top to 
crotch. In this case the crotch seam is 
closed only from the top in back to the leg 
seam, the front of the trousers being finished 
on the right side with a long fly and on the 
left side with a facing. Use front trousers 

[65] 




Fig. 52 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



pattern as a guide in cutting the fly and fac- 
ing. Mark a point on the pattern two and 
one half inches in from the top of the crotch 
seam. Continue down the seam, marking 
points at this depth until the curved portion 
at the crotch is reached. Here narrow in 
the line and round it off. Lay the pattern on 
another piece of paper, mark the outline at 
the crotch seam and run a tracing wheel 
over the pencil marks. Remove the pattern 
and add seams at the back edge of the piece. 
Use this pattern as a guide in cutting the 
facing, fly and underlap for buttonholes. 
One piece is needed for the facing, two for 
the fly and two for the underlap. Use a 
firm thin lining material for the underlap. 

Bind the back edge of the facing. Lay 
the facing on the face side of the left trouser 
front, matching the raw edges. Stitch the 
facing to the trousers, running the stitching a 
seam's width in from the raw edge. Turn 
the facing onto the wrong side, press and 
baste into position. 

Lay the two pieces for the underlap with 
1661 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



the right sides together. Stitch along the 
outside edge. Turn the underlap right side 
out. Turn under the free edges a seam's 
width, baste and press. Work buttonholes 
and baste underlap to left side of trousers, 
placing it on top of the facing and with the 
edge just in back of the edge 
of the trousers. From the 
wrong side of the trousers, 
stitch the underlap and fac- 
ing to the outside of the 
trousers, running the stitch- 
ing along the back edge of 
the underlap. Catch the 
underlap to the facing be- 
tween each buttonhole with over and over 
stitches. 

Stitch the fly and attach it in the same 
manner as the fly in the drop-seat trousers. 
See Fig. 53. 

The Front of Men's Underdrawers.— 
Underdrawers are made to lap at the top. 
There is material allowed beyond the center 
front on each side. Close the crotch seam 

L67I 




Fig. 53 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



as described in boys 9 open front trousers and 
face both sides of the front opening. Use 

the front drawers pat- 
tern as a guide in cut- 
ting the facing. See 
open front boys 9 trousers 
for cutting facing and 
sewing it on. After 
the fronts are faced, 
lap the drawers, bring- 
ing the center fronts together. The drawers 
will lap deepest at the top, running to 
nothing at the crotch. Fasten with buttons 
and buttonholes. See Fig. 54. 




Fig. 54 



[68] 



CHAPTER VI 



POCKETS 

Patch Pockets. — This type of pocket is 
formed by applying a piece of material on 
top of the garment. 

Cut the pocket any desired shape and line 
it. See Lining Trimming Pieces, page 95. 
Fell or machine stitch the 
pocket to the garment. See 
Fig. 53. 

Slash Pockets. — Where 
the material is slashed and 
pocket pieces sewed under- 
neath, it is called a plain 
slash pocket. 

To make a plain slash pocket mark the posi- 
tion of the slash on the material. Cut two 
pocket pieces one inch longer than the slash 
and any desired width, rounding off the 
bottom. Lay one pocket piece so it extends 
above the mark, lapping it only a seam's 

[69] 




Fig. 55 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



width over the mark. Stitch the pocket 
piece to the material, running the stitching 
just above the slash mark and parallel to it. 
See Fig. §6. Place the other pocket piece 





Fig. 56 



Fig. 57 



below the slash mark with a seam's width 
extending above it. Stitch this piece to the 
material, running the stitching parallel to 
the slash mark and just below. The two 
stitchings should be not over one eighth of 
an inch apart. At the ends of the slash mark, 
run stitchings on the lower piece at right 
; £ angles to the first stitching and 

_ from the stitching in the lower 

to the stitching in the upper 
pocket piece. See Fig. 57. Stitch back 
and forth two or three times to make it 
firm. Slash centerway between the two 
stitchings and diagonally to the corners. See 
[70 ]j 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




Fig. 59 



Fig. 58. Turn the two pocket pieces through 
the slash onto the wrong side of the garment. 
Baste the edges of the slash together, press 
and stitch around the 
slash again for trim- 
ming. The two pocket 
pieces will lie on top of 
each other on the wrong 
side of the garment. 
Stitch the two pocket 
pieces together, running 
the stitching a seam's width from the edges. 
See Fig. 59. If the garment is unlined, bind 
the raw edges of the pocket pieces. See 
Binding, page 113. Stay the ends of the 
pocket on the right side of the garment with 
tailor's tacks. See Fig. 60 
and Tailor 9 s Tacks, page 

Fig. 60 2 9* 

To make a slash pocket 
with flap proceed as for a plain slash pocket, 
inserting the flap between the garment and 
the pocket piece at the top of the slash. Do 
not cut slash until pieces are attached. 

[71] 




DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



jj Line the flap, leaving the top edges raw. 
See Lining Trimming Pieces, page 95. In 
placing the upper pocket piece, put the flap 
under it with the right side of the flap next 
to the right side of the garment and the bottom 
of the flap lapping a seam's width over the 
slash mark. Stitch the upper and lower 
pocket pieces in place as in a plain slash 
pocket. When the pocket 
pieces are turned through 
the slash onto the wrong 
side of the garment the 
flap remains on the right 
side. Fig. 61. Turn the 
raw edges at the top of 
the slash up onto the 
garment and from the right side of the 
garment stitch just above the flap, running 
the stitching the length of the slash. Stitch 
the inside pocket pieces as described in mak- 
ing a plain slash pocket. 

A welt pocket is a form of slash pocket which 
has an inset piece of material at the bottom 
of the slash. This inset piece of material is 




Fig. 61 



[72] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



called the welt. Welt pockets are used in 
waistcoats and coats. 

To make a welt pocket, mark where the 
finish welt is to come on the garment. A 
welt three quarters of an inch wide gives a 
good appearance. Then mark centerway 
between the upper and lower edges of the welt 
to within one half inch of either end. From 
the end of the center line mark diagonal 
lines to the corners of the 
welt. See Fig. 62. These 
center lines are where the 
material will be slashed. 
Cut two pocket pieces to 
extend a seam's width beyond the welt marks 
on either side. The pocket piece which is 
to be sewed to the lower edge of the slash 
should be cut the width of the finished welt 
longer than the pocket piece which is to be 
sewed to the upper edge of the slash. Place 
the pocket pieces on the right side of the 
material with the edges just meeting at 
the center line on the welt. Stitch across 
the pocket pieces, running the stitching equal 

[73] 




DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



distances from the slash mark and placing 
the two rows at a distance apart which just 

equals the width of 
the finished <' welt. 
Slash on mark cen- 
terway between the 
stitchings and diagon- 
ally at the corners. 
Turn the pocket 
pieces through the 
slash onto the wrong 
side. Turn both pocket pieces up above the 
slash and stitch the lower pocket piece to the 
material at the ends of ^^^^^^^ 

the slash. See Fig. 63. 




HHiiiirfiin. 




Fig. 64 Fig. 6$ 

Turn the two pocket pieces so they hang 
down and stitch faround the outside edges. 
[74] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



On the outside the welt will appear as in 
Fig. 64. 

Boys' Trousers Pockets. — Face the front 
trousers at the pocket for a space of two 
inches. See Facing, page 92. The back of 
boys' trousers are cut with an extension at 
the pocket. Cut two inside pocket pieces 
and join the top of one to the facing and the 
top of the other to the extension. Stitch the 
two pieces together at the outer edges. See 
Fig. 65. 



[75] 



CHAPTER VII 

SLEEVES AND HOW TO HANG THEM 

Sleeve Vents. — Shirt sleeves have a vent 
at the back finished with a pointed top facing. 
Divide the bottom of the sleeve in half and 
then divide the back half in half again. This 
will give the point where the sleeve should be 
slashed for the vent. Usually the slash is 
about four inches deep. 

Finish the back edge with an extension. 
Cut a straight piece of material one and three 
quarter inches wide and a seam's width longer 
than the slash. Turn off a seam at the top 
and press the edge. Lay this extension 
along the back edge of the slash. Keep the 
edges even at the bottom but place the edge 
of the extension nearly a seam's width beyond 
the slash at the top. Stitch the length of 
the slash, running the stitching a seam's 
width in from the edge of the extension 
piece. On the edge of the slash there will 
[76] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



be a seam taken at the bottom running to 
nothing at the top of the slash. Turn under 
the free edge of the extension a seam's width, 
fold the extension through the center and 
stitch it flat over the raw edges on the wrong 
side of the sleeve. 

Cut a pointed facing for the front edge of 
the slash which will finish one inch wide. 
Mark a line on a piece of plain 
paper four inches long as line AB _ y\ 
in Fig. 66. One inch beyond this 
line mark another line parallel to 
it, as line CD in Fig. 66. Draw 



x q 



a cross line at the top between v o x a 

points A and C and mark the 
center of it, lettering this point E. Mark a 
point one and one quarter inches above E, 
lettering it F. From this point draw diagonal 
lines to points A and C. Mark another line, 
as GH, one half inch beyond line CD and 
parallel to it. Continue the line AC until 
it reaches line G. At the bottom draw a 
straight line across, touching points B, D, 
and H. Add the regulation seam allowance 

[77] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



at all points. This gives a pattern for the 
pointed facing. 

Turn under the top and the side edges AB 
of the facing a seam's width and press. Lay 
the facing on the wrong side of the sleeve 
with the right side of the facing next to the 
wrong side of the material and the edge GH 
next to the edge of the slash. Place the fac- 
ing so the edges match at the 
bottom but with the edge of 
the facing extending a seam's 
width beyond the slash at the 
top. Stitch the length of the 
slash, running the stitching a 
seam's width from the edge 
of the facing. Fold the facing along line 
CD, bringing the pointed portion onto the 
right side of the sleeve. The point should 
come directly over the slash. Stitch the fac- 
ing flat to the sleeve, running the stitching 
near the edge. Stitch across what was line 
CA on the pattern, which will catch the 
extension at the back of the slash securely 
to the upper facing. See Fig. 67. 
[78} 




Fig. 67 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



Short slashes in blouse sleeves are finished 
with continuous facings. See Continuous Fac- 
ings, page $j. 

Cuffs. — Band cuffs on shirt sleeves are 
sewed on after the sleeve seam is closed. 
Lay the cuff lining on the cuff with the right 
sides of the material together. Stitch across 
the ends and the bottom of the cuff. Cut 
off the corners diagonally near to 
the stitching and turn the cuff 
right side out. Place the cuff on 
top of the sleeve, with the wrong 
side of the cuff next to the wrong 
side of the sleeve, the raw edges 
of the cuff even with the bottom 
of the sleeve and the ends of the cuff com- 
ing to the end of the facing and extension 
at the vent in the sleeve. Stitch the inside 
cuff to the sleeve, leaving outer cuff free. 
Turn the cuff down into the finished position. 
Turn under the free edge of the cuff a seam's 
width and fell it over the raw edges on the 
right side of the sleeve (see Felling, page 22), 
or stitch it down by machine. See Fig. 68. 

[79] 




DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



Band cuffs on sleeves without vents are sewed 
to the sleeves before the sleeve seams are 
joined. Join the lining to bottom of the cuff, 
with the raw edges of the seam extending on 
the wrong side of the pieces. Leave the ends 
of the cuff and lining free. Join the cuff to 
the bottom of the sleeve with the raw edges 
of the seam extending on the inside of the 

sleeve. See Fig. 69. 
Then join the sleeve 
seam, the ends of the 
cuff and cuff lining in 
one continuous stitch- 
FlG ; 6g ing. Turn the cuff lin- 

ing onto the wrong side of the sleeve, fold 
in the free edge and fell it over the raw edges 
at the joining of the cuff and sleeve. 

French cuffs are double cuffs which do not 
lap, but are held together at the end with 
cuff links. These are used on shirt sleeves 
which have a vent. 

If a stiff cuff is desired interline with coarse 
lawn, carrying out the plan outlines in inter- 
lining Detachable Collars, page 98. After 
[80] 




DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




Fig. 70 



the interlining is pinned in place, lay the two 

pieces for the cuff with the right sides of the 

material together and stitch 

across the bottom and the ends, 

leaving the edge which will 

fasten to the sleeve free. Cut 

off the seams near the stitching 

to avoid bulkiness, turn the cuff 

right side out and press. Lay 

the cuff on top of the sleeve 

with the raw edges of the cuff along the 

bottom of the sleeve. Bring one end of 

the cuff to the end of the facing on the 

front of the vent, but bring the other end 
of the cuff only to the joining of 
the extension and sleeve. See 
Fig. 70. In stitching, join one 
thickness of the cuff to the lower 
edge of the sleeve. Turn the cuff 
down, fold in the free edge and 
fell it over the raw edges at the 
IG * ?I joining of the cuff and sleeve. 

Fold the cuff through the center, turning 

the lower section back on the upper. Work 

[81] 




DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



buttonholes in the end and fasten with cuff 

links. See Fig. 71. 

Turn back cuffs on sleeves without vents give 

the best appearance when they are sewed on 

after the sleeve seams are closed. If the 

cuffs are lined, join the lining to the top of the 

cuff with the raw edges of the seam extending 

on the wrong side of the pieces. Open up 

the cuff and lining, and join the 

ends with the seams extending on 

the wrong side. Turn the sleeve 

wrong side out and slip the cuff 

over the sleeve with the right side 

of the cuff next to the wrong side 

of the sleeve and the bottom of 

the cuff even with the bottom of the sleeve. 

Stitch the cuff to the sleeve, running the 

stitching around the bottom of the sleeve 

and leaving the cuff lining free. Turn the 

sleeve right side out and the cuff into the 

finished position, folding under the free edge 

of the lining a seam's width, and felling it 

down by hand or stitching it by machine. 

See Fig. 72. 
C82] 




DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



Unlined turn-back cuffs are usually sewed 
to the sleeve after the sleeve and cuff seams 
are joined. In this case, French seam the 
joining in the cuff. See French Seams, page 
32. Turn the sleeve wrong side out and 
slip the cuff over the sleeve bringing the right 
side of the cuff next to the wrong side of the 
sleeve, and the lower edges even. Stitch 
around the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the 
sleeve right side out and the cuff into the 
finished position. 

To Measure a Sleeve. — Mark off the seam 
allowance on the top and sides of the sleeve 
pattern. Pin the shoulder seams of the pat- 
tern and mark off the seams at the armhole 
and underarm. - Measure around the armhole 
and across the top of the sleeve with the edge 
of the tape. A sleeve should be at least an 
inch and a half larger than the armhole. 

To Make a Sleeve Smaller at the Top. — 
Lay in a dart tuck at the center of the sleeve 
pattern running from the top to the bottom. 
Crease the pattern lengthwise through the 
center, bringing the side edges together. At 

[83] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



the top of the sleeve pattern mark half the 
width of the tuck on either side of the crease. 





Fig. 73 Fig. 74 

See Fig. 73. From these points run diagonal 
lines to the center of the sleeve at the bottom. 
Crease along one of the 
diagonal lines and fold it 
over to the other to form 
the tuck. See Fig. 74. 

To Make a Sleeve Nar- 
rower from Top to Bottom. 
— Bring the side edges of 
the sleeve pattern together 
Fig. 75 anc [ crease through the 

center. Mark the amount to be taken out of 
the sleeve, half on one side of the center and 
[84] 




DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



half on the other. Crease along one of these 
marks and fold it over to the other. See 

Fig. 75- 

To Increase the Size of a Sleeve at the 
Top. — Bring the side edges of the sleeve 
pattern together and crease through the 
center. Then cut the 
pattern along the crease. 
Mark a straight line on 
a plain piece of paper. 
Place half the pattern on 
one side of the line and 
half on the other. Keep 
the lower edges even and 
touching the line. Spread 
the pattern apart at the 
top the desired amount, 
keeping the two pieces equal distances from 
the line. See Fig. 76. Mark around the 
outline of the pieces and it will give a sleeve 
pattern of increased size at the top. 

To Widen a Sleeve from Top to Bottom. — 
Split the pattern through the center and lay 
the two pieces either side of a straight line 

[85] 




Fig. 76 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



marked on plain paper as described in the 
paragraph before. Keep the tops and bottoms 
even and move the pieces equal distances from 
the line. See Fig. 77. Mark around the 
pieces for a new pattern. 

To Shorten a Sleeve. — Mark off the seam 
allowance at top, sides and bottom. Fold 

the sleeve crosswise 
bringing the bottom of 





Fig. 77 Fig. 78 

the sleeve to the top and matching the corn- 
ers at the bottom where the seams are 
marked off with the corners at the armhole 
where the seams are marked off. Crease 
through the center. Lay in a tuck the de- 
sired depth, taking up half the amount either 

side of the crease. See Fig. 78. 
[86] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




To Lengthen a Sleeve. — Fold crosswise as 
described above and mark exact center. Cut 
the sleeve pattern through the center. Mark 
a straight line on a plain piece of material. 
Lay one piece of the 
pattern above and one 
below the line. Keep the 
edges even and spread 
the pieces, moving both 
pieces the same distance 
from the line. See Fig. 
79. Mark around the 
outside for a new pattern. Fig. 79 

Testing a Sleeve to See if it Will Twist. — 
Mark off the seam allowance on the pattern 
at the top, sides and bottom. Crease the 
sleeve pattern through the center, bringing 
side edges together. The edges at the sides 
should exactly match, both above and below 
the elbow when the center of the sleeve is 
folded in one straight continuous crease. See 
Fig. 80. If when the sleeve is creased and 
the edges matched above the elbow, the 
edges do not come together below the elbow, 

[87] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 





Fig. 80 



Fig. 8 i 



the sleeve will twist. See Fig. 81. In this 

case, true up the 
sleeve pattern by cut- 
ting off a trifle on one 
edge below the elbow 
and adding to the 
other until they ex- 
actly match. 

Adding Reach Room 
to a Sleeve. — If 
sleeves draw when the 
arms are brought foreward, the strain com- 
ing across the back from elbow to elbow there 
is not reach room enough in the sleeves. 
Before using the pattern again, trace off 
the seams, lay the pat- 
tern on another piece of 
paper and add a little 
more goods to the top 
of the pattern at the side 
back. See Fig. 82. This 
lengthens the sleeve at 
just the point where the 

strain comes. Fig. 82 

[88] 




DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



Shirt Sleeves. — These are cut the same 
front and back and the seam in the sleeve 
matches the underarm seam. Shirt sleeves 
should be sewed to the armhole before the 
sleeve or underarm seams are closed. Pin 
the sleeve to the armhole, working from 
the wrong side of the garment and with the 
sleeve toward 
you. Ease the 
sleeve to the 
armhole at all 
points. See Fig. 
83. Double 
stitch the sleeve 
to the armhole, 
turning the raw 
edges into the garment. See Double Stitched 
Seams, page 33. After the sleeve is sewed 
to the armhole, close the sleeve and under- 
arm seam in one continuous stitching. 

Waist Sleeves Having Seams Matching 
Underarm Seams. — In this case, too, the 
sleeve should be sewed to the armhole before 
the sleeve and underarm seams are closed. 

[89] 




Fig. 83 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



Pin the sleeve to the armhole, easing it to 
the armhole at the side front and side back, 
and pinning it plain to the armhole at the 
top and bottom. These sleeves are some- 
times French seamed, sometimes double 
stitched, and sometimes plain seamed and 
bound. See Seams, page 31 and Binding, 
page 113. 

Sleeves with Seams that do not Match 
Underarm Seams. — Here the underarm and 
the sleeve seams are closed before the sleeve 
is joined to the armhole. Pin the sleeve to 
the armhole, working from the wrong side of 
the garment. Ease the sleeve to the arm- 
hole at the side front and back, and pin it to 
the armhole plain at the top and underarm. 
Baste both sleeves to the garment. If the 
garment fitted smoothly before the sleeves 
were sewed in, then, after the sleeves are 
basted in, draws either through the body por- 
tion or in the sleeve, you will know that the 
fault is in the sleeves. Rip them out and 
shift them to the front or the back until the 
garment fits smoothly and the arms can be 
[90] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



moved with freedom. The best finish is 
obtained in this type of sleeve by plain stitch- 
ing it to the armhole and then binding the 
armhole. 

Sleeves with Fullness at the Top. — Sleeves 
of this type are usually made with seams 
that do not match the underarm seams. Join 
the underarm and sleeve seams before joining 
the sleeve to the armhole. Run a gather 
thread all the way around the sleeve. Pin 
the sleeve to the armhole, working from the 
wrong side of the garment. Place most of 
the fullness at the top, side front and back, 
but ease the sleeve slightly to the armhole at 
all points. 

For Coat Sleeves, see page 132. 



[91] 



CHAPTER VIII 



FINISHING 

Darts, — When a triangular-shaped piece 
of material is taken up to eliminate fullness it 
forms a dart. In forming a dart mark the 
amount of material to be taken up and where 
the dart will end. Crease the 
material centerway between the 
marks, bringing the right sides 
of the goods together, and stitch 
the dart. Curve the stitching, 
reversing the curve at the top 
and gradually running it off to 
nothing. See Fig. 84. It gives 
a well-rounded, smooth dart on 
the right side of the goods. If the dart is 
stitched straight across, it will end in a 
blunt point which will poke out on the right 
side of the garment. 

Facings. — A straight facing is formed by 
sewing a straight piece of material to a raw 
[92] 




Fig. 84 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




Fig. 85 



edge and turning it back on the wrong side. 

Lay the facing piece along the edge to be 

faced, with the right sides of the 

material together. Stitch the 

length of the facing. Turn the 

facing onto the wrong side of 

the garment, fold under the raw 

edge a seam's width, press and stitch 

the facing to the material, running 

the stitching along the folded 

edge of the facing. See Fig. 85. 

A shaped facing is one which faces a curved 
or pointed edge and is cut the same shape as 
the outside piece. Use the pattern as a guide 
in cutting the facing, marking 
back on the edge of the pat- 
tern the width of the facing 
plus seams. This gives a pat- 
tern for the facing. Stitch the 
facing to the garment in the 
same manner as a straight 
facing. See Fig. 86. 
Casings. — An extra piece of material ap- 
plied to a garment, for the purpose of carry- 

[93 ] 




Fig. 86 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



ing an elastic or draw string, is called a casing. 
The waistlines of children's guimpes, ladies' 
blouses and the tops of petticoats are finished 
in this manner. 

When the casing is placed centerway of a 
piece, cut a strip of material one inch wide. 
Turn under the ends and stitch across them. 
Mark where the lower edge of the casing will 
come on the material. Lay 
the casing on the wrong side 
of the garment below the 
mark, with only a seam al- 
lowance lapping over the 
mark. Stitch the casing to 
the garment, running the 
stitching a seam's width in from the edge. 
Fold the casing over. Turn under the free 
edge a seam's width and stitch it flat to the 
garment. Insert elastic, fastening it to the 
garment at either end with over and over 
stitches, or insert a draw string. See Fig. 87. 
To make a casing at the edge of a piece, cut 
material for casing and finish ends as de- 
scribed above. Join casing to lower edge 




Fig. 87 



[94] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



the same as a facing, see Facing, page 92, 
then insert elastic or a draw string. 

To Miter Corners. — In order to turn a 
corner in a straight piece of material, it is 
necessary to take a V-shaped dart. This 
forms a mitered corner. 

Lay the straight strip of material face 
down on a smooth surface. Determine where 
the corner is to be and 
swing the material around 
until the outer edges lie in 
the desired position. Pinch 
up the surplus goods at the 
corner until the material is 
smooth. Pin the dart thus 
formed and stitch across it. 
See Fig. 88. Cut off the 
material in the dart, leaving only a narrow 
seam. Turn the piece right side out, fold the 
raw edges of the seam to one side of the miter 
and stitch across the mitered corner again. 

Lining Trimming Pieces. — The lining for 
any trimming piece should be cut a trifle 
smaller than the outside. Otherwise the Iin- 




Fig. 88 



[95] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



ing will wrinkle and bulge beyond the outside 
of the piece. 

Use the pattern for the outside trimming 
piece as a guide in cutting the lining, cutting 
the lining one eighth of an inch smaller on all 
edges than the outside. Lay the lining on 
the outside piece, with the right sides of the 
material together and baste around the edges, 
keeping the edges of the two pieces 
exactly even by holding the outside 
to the lining at all points. Stitch 
around the outside edges, leaving 
a space open for two inches in 
order to turn the trimming piece 
right side out. Cut the seam off diagonally 
at the corners to avoid bulk. Turn the trim- 
ming piece right side out, fold under the free 
edges a seam's width and blind stitch across 
the opening. See Blind Stitching, page 22. 
The edge of the trimming piece will be thin 
and neat. See Fig. 89. 

Yokes. — In children's dresses, ladies tailored 
blouses and men's shirts, yokes are usually 
lined. 




Fig. 89 



[96] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



To make a lined yoke, cut the lining the 
same shape as the outside yoke. In joining, 
insert the material which comes below the 
yoke between the yoke and the yoke lining. 
To do this, lay the yoke on top of the piece 
which is to be joined to it, with the face side of 
the yoke next to the face side of the material 
and the lower edge of the yoke even with 





Fig. 90 Fig. 91 

the upper edge of lower piece. Baste in posi- 
tion and place the yoke lining on the wrong 
side of the lower piece in a position corre- 
sponding to the position of the outside yoke. 
Stitch across the three pieces. See Fig. 90. 
Turn the yoke and the yoke lining up into 
their finished position and press. See Fig. 
91. From the right side of the garment, 
stitch across the yoke again, running the 
stitching above the first joining. 

[97] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



Unlined yokes are double stitched to the 
piece below. See Double Stitched Seams, page 

33- 

Yokes with tucks at the lower edge are lapped 

over the piece which comes below and stitched 
like a tuck. To finish a yoke of this type 
fold back the lower edge a seam's width 
more than the width of the finished tuck. 
Press this edge. Lap the bottom of the yoke 
over the lower piece, keeping the upper edge 
of the lower piece even with the raw edge 
folded under on the yoke. Stitch across the 
yoke, the tuck's width back from the folded 
edge. 

Collars. — Detachable soft shirt collars are 
usually interlined. Use a coarse lawn or 
linen for the interlining. Make the inter- 
lining one, two or three thicknesses according 
to the desired stiffness of the collar. 

Use the collar pattern as a guide in cutting 
the interlining, cutting off the seams at the 
outer edges. Cut two pieces for the outside 
collar. Lay the interlining on the wrong 
side of the under collar piece and baste in 
[98] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



place. Place the top collar on the under 
collar with the right sides of the material to- 
gether. Stitch around the outside edges, 
being careful not to catch the interlining in 
the seam. Leave a two-inch opening at the 
lower edge of the collar for turning the collar 
right side out. To avoid bulkiness at the 
edges cut off the seam near the stitching. 
Turn the collar right side out. Turn under 
the raw edges at the opening and blind stitch 
across the opening by hand. See Blind 
Stitching, page 22. Stitch around the out- 
side of the collar again, running the stitching 
any desired distance from the edge. 

Collars which are lined should have the lin- 
ing cut smaller than the outside. See Lining 
Trimming Pieces, page 95. Leave the neck 
edges of the lining and the collar raw. 

Collars which are hemmed must be cut 
straight at the edges. It is impossible to turn 
a neat hem on a curved edge. Turn the hem 
first onto the right side of the garment. At 
the corners pinch out the surplus goods, and 
stitch across diagonally. See To Miter Cor- 

[99] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



ners, page 95. Then fold the hem onto the 
wrong side, turn under the free edges a 
seam's width, and press the edges. Stitch 
around the collar, working from the right side 
of the collar and running the stitching a 
hem's width from the edge. 

Collars which are faced give the same ap- 
pearance as hemmed collars. Square collars 
can be finished with a straight facing. See 
Straight Facings, page 92. In this case the 
corners should be mitered. See To Miter 
Corners, page 95. The best result is obtained 
in round or fancy-shaped collars when a shaped 
facing is used. See Shaped Facings, page 93* 

Finishing the Neck. — As soon as the 
shoulder seams are closed in any garment, 
run a thread around the neck by hand and 
draw up the material slightly. This is to 
prevent stretching. 

Collar bands are used as a finish at the 
neck where the garment has a detachable 
collar, as in the case of shirts and some tailored 
blouses. Cut two pieces for the collar band. 
Lay the two pieces of the band with the 
C 100] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



right sides of the material together. Stitch 
the two pieces together, running the stitch- 
ing a seam's width in from the edge at the ends 
and across the top. To avoid bulk, cut the 
seams away close to the stitching. Turn 
the band right side out and press. Mark 
the center-front and center-back on the band. 
Place the band on the wrong 
side of the garment, with the 
raw edges of the band even 
with the neck edge of the 
garment. Keep the center- 
front and center-back of the 
band even with the center- 
front and center-back of the 
garment. Stitch the edge of the band which 
comes next to the garment to the neck edge 
of the garment. Turn the band up into 
the finished position, fold in the raw edge a 
seam's width, and stitch this free edge over 
the raw edges on the right side of the gar- 
ment. See Fig. 92. 

// the collar is lined, place the collar on the 

wrong side of the garment with the right 

[ 101 ] 




Fig. 92 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



side of the collar next to the wrong side of 
the garment and the raw edges on the collar 
even with the neck edge of the garment. 
Stitch the edge of the collar which comes 
next to the garment to the neck edge of the 
garment. Turn the collar onto the right side 
of the garment, fold under the free edge a 
seam's width and stitch 
this edge over the raw 
edges or fell it down by 
hand. See Fig. 93. See 
Felling, page 22. 

// the collar is faced or 
hemmed finish the neck of 
the garment in sewing on 
the collar with a narrow 
facing. Cut the facing bias, three quarters 
of an inch wide. See Cutting True Bias, 
page 18. 

Lay the collar on the right side of the gar- 
ment, with the wrong side of the collar next 
to the right side of the garment and the 
edges even at the neck. Place the facing 

along the neck edge and stitch around the 
[ 102] 




Fig. 93 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



neck. To avoid bulk, cut the seam off close 
to the stitching. Turn the facing onto the 
wrong side of the garment. Fold under the 
ends and raw edge. Fell the facing in place, 
see Felling, page 22, or stitch it down by 
machine. See Fig. 94. 

If the front of the waist has revers, join the 
under collar to the neck edge of the waist, 
with the raw edges of the 
seam extending on the in- 
side of the waist. The 
front of the waist should 
have facings. Use the 
front of the pattern as a 
guide in cutting these. The 
upper portion of the facing IG * 94 

should extend two inches beyond the roll line 
of the revers. Join the upper edge of the 
facings to the neck edge of the collar. The 
raw edge of the seam should extend on the 
wrong side. Then join the collar and front 
facings to the waist. Place the facings and 
collar on the right side of the garment, 
keeping edges even. Stitch around the out- 

[103] 




DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



side edges of the collar and down the fronts. 
Cut the seams off diagonally at the corners 
to avoid clumsiness. Turn the collar and 
facings onto the wrong side of the garment. 
Turn under the raw edges a seam's width 
and stitch in place or turn off a seam's width 
on the back edge of the front facing and 
stitch along the fold, leaving the facing free 
from the waist. In this case, turn under the 
raw edges at the neck of the collar and fell 
the collar in place, see Felling, page 22, or 
machine stitch it down. 

Slashed Openings at the Neck. — Middies 
and similar garments which slip on over the 
head have the front slashed at the neck. A 
slash of this type is finished with a facing. 
Do not slash the material until the facing is 
stitched in place. 

Where the collar extends to the center-front, 
the slash is faced before the collar is joined 
to the neck. Cut the facing to extend two 
inches beyond the slash at all points. Turn 
a narrow hem on the outer edges of the facing 
or bind these edges. See Binding, page 113. 
[ 104] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



Mark where the slash is to be placed on the 

front of the garment. Cover this mark with 

the facing piece, placing the facing piece on 

the right side of the material and centerway 

over the mark. Mark the slash on the facing 

piece. Stitch either side of the mark, placing 

the stitching one eighth of an inch from the 

mark at the top and running 

the stitching to a point below 

the mark. See Fig. 95. Slash 

centerway between the stitching 

and turn the facing onto the 

wrong side of the garment. 

Stitch the outer edges of the 

facing to the garment, or let the 

facing hang free. Work eyelets either side 

of the slash and fasten with a lace. Join the 

collar to the neck edge in the regular way. 

See Collars, page 98. 

Where the front of the garment turns back in 

reverSy face the slash as described above. In 

joining the collar to the neck edge stitch the 

under collar to the neck edge of the garment, 

and the under side of the revers and the top 

[ 105] 




Fig. 95 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



collar to the revers facing. Fell the raw 
edges of the collar over the raw edges of the 
garment at the back of the neck. 

Waistbands. — Cut the waistband to cor- 
respond to the waist measure, allowing laps 
and seams at the ends. It should be twice 
the desired finished width plus seams. Fold 
the waistband through the center with the 
right sides together and 
stitch across the ends. 
Turn the waistband right 
side out, fold under the 
lower edges a seam's width 

Fig. 96 ° 

and press. Mark the cen- 
ter-front and back on both the waistband 
and the garment. Insert the raw edge of 
the garment between the two thicknesses of 
the waistband, keep the center-fronts and 
backs even, and stitch. See Fig. 96. 

Inside Belts of Grosgrain Belting. — Raised 
waistline skirts are sometimes hung from the 
top of an inside belt of stiff grosgrain webbing. 
The webbing should measure just the amount 

the skirt is cut above the normal waistline. 
[106] 




DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



The inside belt should correspond to the 
waist measure and have hems allowed at the 
ends. The ends of the belt should just come 
together, after the hems are turned, and be 
finished with hooks and eyes. Mark the 
center-front and center-back on the belt. 

After the gores of the skirt have been 
joined and the placket finished, join to the 
top of the inside belt, bringing the center- 
front and back of the skirt to the center-front 
and back of the belt. Working from the 
right side of the skirt, lap the top of the skirt 
a seam's width over the edge of the belt, 
with the belt extending straight up above 
the skirt. Baste the skirt in this position, 
turn down the belt inside the skirt and try- 
on the skirt to see if it needs readjustment. 
In stitching the skirt to the belt, turn the 
belt up above the skirt, as it was first. Stitch 
through one thickness of the skirt and the 
belt. Cover the raw edge with a fold of ma- 
terial or tape and stitch the tape or material 
along either side. Then turn the belt down 
into the skirt. The top of the skirt will roll 

C 107] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




over the top of the belt and give a clean 
finish. See Fig. 97. 

One-piece dresses often have grosgrain belt- 
ing as a stay at the waistline. Finish off the 
waist portion of the garment except at the 
lower edge. Join the skirt gores, and finish 
the placket and lay in any 
pleats, or gather any fullness at 
the top. 

If the dress is made with a 
raised waistline, make the belt 
tight enough so the lower edges 
will stay at the normal waistline 
and the belt extend above. Finish the ends 
of the belt with hems and hooks and eyes, and 
mark the center-front and back on the belt. 
Try on the belt and adjust the lower edge of 
the waist over the top of the belt, bringing 
the center-front and back of the waist to these 
points in the belt. Put the skirt on over 
the waist and belt, turn under the top of the 
skirt a seam's width, bring the center and 
back of the skirt to these points in the waist 

and belt, and pin securely to the belt. Re- 
[108] 



Fig. 97 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



move the garment and stitch through the 
skirt, the waist and the belt, running the 
stitching along the top of the belt. 

// the dress is normal waistline, make the 
belt a trifle looser so the center will stay at 
the normal waistline. In adjusting the waist 
and skirt to the belt, stitch along the center 
of the belt. 

Hemming the Bottom of Skirts. — Straight 
skirts should have the hems turned evenly all 
the way around, and any adjusting should be 
done from the top. Before turning the hem 
bind the edge, see Binding, page 113, or 
fold under a seam's width and stitch along 
the edge of the fold. Turn the hem, press it 
and stitch by machine or fell by hand. See 
Felling, page 22. 

In circular skirts there is fullness at the 
top of the hem. After the hem has been 
turned back, run a gather thread around the 
top of the hem, drawing it up so it is just the 
size of the skirt. The fullness should run 
straight down at all points. In woolen ma- 
terials or cottons in woolen finish, shrink out 

C 109] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



some of the fullness at the top of the hem. 
See To Steam Out Slight Ease or Fullness, page 
1 8. Bind the top of the hem and fell by 
hand or machine stitch. 

The Top of Boys' Trousers. — The edges 
are faced and finished with a button band. 
Cut strips of material for bands wide enough 





Fig. 98 



Fig. 99 



to be folded double, one for front and one for 
back of trousers, and long enough to reach 
across. Fold bands through center, turn 
under raw edges, press and stitch around 
them. Face front and back of trousers. See 
Fig. 98 and Facings, page 47. Work but- 
tonholes in bands and stitch lower edges of 
bands to trousers, keeping top of bands even 
with top of trousers. See Fig. 99. Button- 
holes in band should match buttons on under 

waist, 
[no] 



CHAPTER IX 

TRIMMING 

Bound Buttonholes. — The neatest and 
strongest buttonhole is made by facing the 
slash with one piece of material, turned at 
either side of the slash to give the appearance 
of binding. Mark where the buttonhole is to 
be placed on the face side of the material. 
Cover the mark with a 
facing piece, cut to ex- 
tend one-half inch be- 
yond the mark at all 
points. Mark the but- 
tonhole on the facing 
piece. Stitch either side of the mark and 
square across the ends, running the stitching 
one eighth of an inch from the mark at all 
points. Slash centerway between the stitch- 
ings to within one eighth of an inch of the end. 
From these points slash diagonally to the cor- 
ners. See Fig. ioo. Turn the facing through 

Cm] 




Fig. ioo 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASYI 




Fig. ioi 



the slash onto the wrong side. - At the ends 

of the buttonhole the facing will fall into 

two small pleats. Stitch across the ends of 

the buttonhole again, stitching the facing to 
the triangular portion which 
was formed by slashing diago- 
nally to the corners. See Fig. 
ioi. Turn under the raw edges 
of the facing, and fell by hand, 
see Felling, page 22, or baste 

it in place and, working from the right side 

of the garment, stitch around the buttonhole 

again. See Fig. 102. 

Piping. — A piping is a bias fold inserted 

under the edge of a piece or in 

the seam. Cut material for 

piping in one-inch bias strips. 

See Cutting Bias, page 18. Join 

the strips, taking a narrow 

seam and press the raw edges of the seam 

open. 

If the edge 0/ a garment is to be piped fold 

over one edge of the piping a quarter of an 

inch, and press. Turn back the other edge 

[112] 




Fig. 102 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




an eighth of an inch and stitch near this edge. 
Turn under the edge to be piped a seam's 
width and press. Place the piping under this 
edge with the edge of the piping extending one 
eighth of an inch beyond the piece. See 
Fig. 103. Stitch from the 
right side of the garment. 

If a seam is to be piped, 
fold the piping through the 
center, bringing the wrong 
sides together, and press. 
Turn under the edge of one 
piece to be joined a seam's 
width. Place the piping under this edge 
with the edge of the piping extending one 
eighth of an inch beyond the piece, and baste 
in place. Lap the piece thus piped, over the 
piece it is to join to, the width of a seam. 
Stitch through the two pieces and the pip- 
ing, running the stitching along the edge of 
the upper piece. Bind or overcast the raw 
edges on the wrong side of the garment. 
; Binding. — Edges which are to be bound 
should have the seam allowance cut off of 

[113] 



Fig. 103 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



them. A binding is stitched one side of the 
material, rolled over the edge and stitched to 
the other side. > It neither adds to nor takes 
away from the size of a piece. Cut 
the material for binding bias one 
and one eighth inches wide. See 
Cutting True Bias, page 18. Join 
the strips, taking a narrow seam, 
and press the raw edges of the 
seams open. Lay the binding along 
the edge of the material with the 
1 4 right side of the binding next to the 
wrong side of the goods. Stitch along the 
edge, running the stitching one quarter of 
an inch from the edge. Fold the binding 
over onto the right side of the goods. Turn 
under the free edge of 
the binding one quarter 
of an inch and stitch the 
binding flat to the ma- 
terial. See Fig. 104.: FlG - 10 * 
I Cording. — This trimming is formed by 
rolling the material over a cord and catching 
it just in back of the cord. Cotton cable 
' C 114] 




DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



cord comes in various widths for this purpose. 
See Fig. 105. 

Air Cording. — In heavy materials pin 
tucks are called air cording. The narrow 
tuck ridges up the material like a cording. 
See Pin Tucks, page 38. 

Hemstitching with an Ordinary Sewing 
Machine. — Seams can be stitched to simu- 
late hemstitching by in- 
serting blotting paper 
between the two thick- 
nesses of the goods. 
Lay the two pieces to 
be joined with the face 
sides of the material 
together and the edges 
even. Insert strips of blotting paper between 
the two pieces at the edge. See Fig. 106. 
Remove the sewing machine foot, loosen the 
tensions and stitch through the two thick- 
nesses of the material and the blotting paper. 
Tear the paper away, turn the raw edges of 
the seams away from each other and stitch 
either side of the seam. See Fig. 107. The 

[115] 





DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



hemstitching can be widened by using two or 
three thicknesses of blotting paper. 

Lace Insertion. — The easiest way to 
handle lace insertion is to apply it to the 
top of the material, then cut the material 
away underneath. Baste the insertion in the 
desired position. Stitch either side of the 
insertion. Cut the material underneath, 





Fig. 108 



Fig. 109 



leaving only a narrow seam allowance on 
either side. See Fig. 108. Fold back the 
raw edges on the wrong side and stitch either 
side of the insertion again, this time catch- 
ing down the raw edges. See Fig. 109. 

Lace Edging. — The best result is ob- 
tained by sewing the lace to the top of the 
material. If the lace is gathered, draw it 
up on the cord at the top. Lay this edge a 
seam's width in from the edge of the ma- 
[»6] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



terial. Stitch along the inside edge of the 

lace. Turn the raw edge of the material 

back and stitch along the 

inside edge of the lace again 

to catch the material in 

place. On the wrong side, 

cut off the raw edge close to the stitching. 

See Fig. no. 




Fig. i io 



[»7] 



CHAPTER X 

BE YOUR OWN DESIGNER 

How to Use a Block Waist Pattern. — A 
plain waist pattern can be used as a basis 
for working out new designs. Use a plain 
high neck waist pattern without tucks or 
fullness. Cut off the seam allow- 
ances. Seams are confusing 
when working out a new design. 

To add a yoke. Pencil the 
outline of the yoke on the pat- 
tern. See Fig. in. Lay the 
pattern on another piece of 

FlG * >« », T T T 

paper. Mark around the upper 

portion of the pattern, and run a tracing 

wheel across the lower line of the yoke. 

Remove the pattern, and add seams beyond 

the marks at all points. Make a pattern for 

the lower portion by marking around the 

outside lower lines and trace across the yoke 

line, adding seams. 
[118] 




DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



To put in fullness below the yoke draw lines 
every two inches apart parallel to the center- 
front if it is the front of the waist, or parallel 
to the center-back if it is the back of the 
waist. Split the pattern along these lines 
and spread the pieces, keeping the edges 
parallel. Start with the piece nearest the 
center-front if it is the front of the waist, or 
center-back if it is the back 
of the waist. Square a line 
out at right angles from the 
top of this piece. Place the 
next piece with the top touch- 
ing the line squared out from 
the first piece. Square a line out from the 
second piece in the same manner and place 
the top of the third piece on this line. Place 
the rest of the pieces in the same manner. 
See Fig. 112. Mark around the outside 
edges. Remove the pattern. Draw straight 
lines from the highest to the lowest point 
on the yoke edge and smooth the curve at 
the bottom of the waist. Add seams at all 
points. 

[119] 




Fig. 112 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



To add fullness at the top of the piece only, 
mark lines two inches apart on the pattern 
and split it into narrow pieces, but spread 
the pieces at the top only. Thumb tack the 
pieces so they just touch at the bottom, and 
spread them at the top. Mark around the 
outside edges, remove the pieces and draw 

new lines touch- 
ing the highest 
and lowest points. 
Add seams. 

To add tucks, 
mark where the 
tuck will come 
on the pattern. Lay the pattern on a plain 
piece of paper. Mark around the front 
portion as far as the tuck if it is the front 
pattern, or around the back portion as far 
as the tuck if it is the back pattern. Re- 
move the pattern and lay in the tuck. Then 
lay on the pattern again and mark the rest 
of the outline. See Fig. 113. Add seams 
to pattern and cut piece while tuck is folded 
in place. 
[ 120] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



For groups of narrow tucking, spread the 
pattern as for fullness, see To Add Fullness, 
page 119, or tuck the material, then lay on 
the plain pattern and cut out the piece, 
allowing seams. 

To add a hem, allow half the depth of the 
hem beyond the edge of the pattern, then 
the width of the hem plus a seam to turn 
back. This allows for a lap at the closing. 

To take out the fullness at the bottom of the 
waist fit it out in darts, split the pattern at 
the armhole or lay in pleats at the under- 
arm seam. 

There are two kinds of darts, those from 
the bust to the bottom and those at the 
shoulder. To locate darts below bust, cut 
pattern in cheap material and try on, pin- 
ning up darts to fit the figure. For a dart at 
the shoulder, mark a line centerway through 
the shoulder, following the slant of the 
shoulder, then running parallel to the center- 
front down to the bottom of the pattern. 
Lap out the desired amount of material be- 
low the bust which will spread the pattern 

[121] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




Fig. 114 



at the shoulder. Mark around the piece, in- 
dicating dart, and add seams. See Fig. 114. 
Another way to take out the 
fullness is to spread the armhole. 
Slash the pattern parallel to 
center-front. On a level with 
the bust line, slash over to the 
armhole. Keep the pattern to- 
gether at the bust line, lap the 
lower edge and spread the arm- 
hole. See Fig. 115. Of course 
this enlarges the armhole a trifle. Trace 
around the outside of the pattern, smooth 
up the curve at the armhole, 
and add seams. 

The fullness can also be taken 
out at the underarm. In this 
case, slash the pattern parallel 
to center-front to the bust line. 
From the top of this slash run 
three slashes to the underarm 
seam. Keep the pieces together 
at the bust line. Lap the pieces at the lower 
edge which will spread the pieces at the 
C 122] 




Fig. 115 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




Fig. 116 



underarm. Mark around the outside of the 
pattern and add seams. See Fig. 116. In 
making the garment take up the 
amount spread at the underarm 
in pleats. 

Position of lace or insertion 
should first be indicated on the 
block pattern. Pencil on where 
the center of the lace or insertion 
is to go. Then mark the finished 
edge of the lace or insertion. See 
Fig. 117. Lay the pattern on the goods and 
run over these marks with a tracing wheel. 
To sew on lace or insertion, 
see Lace or Insertion, page 116. 
How to Use Block Skirt Pat- 
tern. — A seven-gored skirt of 
normal waistline, without seams, 
makes the best block pattern. 

To make fewer gores, place 
the pattern on another piece 
of paper. Lay the lower por- 
tion of the gores along side of each other, 
mark around the outside of the pieces and 

[ 123] 




Fig. 117 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




Fig. 118 



the darts thus formed. See Fig. 118. Di- 
vide this pattern into as many pieces as 

desired, marking 
darts at the seams 
which will equal the 
darts taken out origi- 
nally. See Fig. 119. 
Lay this diagram 
over another piece 
of paper and run a 
tracing wheel around 
the outline of the new gore. Remove the 
pattern, add seams and cut out. To make 
the skirt smaller at 
the bottom, lap the 
gores as indicated in 
Fig. 120. 

// the skirt is to 
have raised waist line, 
measure around the 
body where the top 
of the skirt will 

come. Lay the gores on a plain piece of 
paper, mark the position of the new waist- 
[ 124] 




Fig. 119 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



line above each gore, and add sufficient 
to either side of the gores to equal the new 
waist measurement. If 
the skirt is to have a 
fitted appearance at the 
top, run the lines from 
the top of each gore to 
the old normal waist- 
line. See Fig. 121. If 
the skirt is to hang 
straight from the raised waistline to the 
hips, draw a straight line from the top of 
each gore to the hip. See Fig. 122. 

c _ , Add pleats to a 




Fig. 120 



Fig. 121 



Fig. 122 



skirt in the same 
way as adding tucks 
to a waist. See To 
Add Tucks, page 120. 
To add a group of 
pleats coming only 
part way on a skirt, mark on the plain gore 
the outline the gore will take and the exact 
position of the pleats. See Fig. 123. Lay 
the pattern on another piece of material, 

[125] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 





Fig. 123 



Fig. 124 



trace the outside edges and the [new outline 
along what will be the folded edge of the 

first pleat. Add 
seams at the outer 
edges and add the 
width of the pleat 
plus a seam be- 
yond the fold edge 
of the pleat. See 
Fig. 124. Slash 
the pattern where 
the pleat turns back, and fold the pleat back 
before cutting out the bottom of the gore. 
Cut out the pleated section 
in the old pattern and use it 
as a guide for cutting the new 
pattern with the 
pleats on. See Fig. 
125. Follow the 
same method in lay- 
ing in the pleat as in 
laying in tucks in a IG * " 5 
waist. Cut an extension on the gore which is 
to join to the pleated section. See Fig. 126. 
[126] 





Fig. 126 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



To determine the size of pleats in a straight 
side-pleated skirt, decide on the number of 
widths to be put in the skirt, join the pieces, 
measure the top of the skirt and the waist- 
line of the figure. The difference between 
the waist measure and the top of the skirt 
will give the amount of material to be taken 
out in the pleats. Divide this equally by 
the number of pleats and it will give the 
amount to be taken up in each pleat. To 
space the pleats, decide how wide you want 
the space at center-front, subtract this 
amount from the waist measure. Then 
divide the remaining waist measure by 
one less than the number of pleats. This 
gives the width of the spaces between the 
pleats. : '. 

How to Hang Your Own Skirt. — Finish 
off the waistline of the skirt and try it on. 
Stand near a table which comes about fifteen 
inches below the waistline. Place pins in 
the skirt where the table touches the skirt. 
Turn up the skirt at the center-front the 
desired amount. Remove the skirt and 

[127] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



make the distance from the pins to the 
lower edge the same at all points. As the 
curve of the hips comes above the table any 
differences in the length will be from the 
pin to the top. 



[128] 



CHAPTER XI 

COAT MAKING 

Shrink the Materials. — Woolens and cot- 
tons cannot be properly worked up and 
pressed unless they are first shrunk. The 
canvas for interlining should also be 
thoroughly shrunk before it is 
cut. See Shrinking Material, 
page 9. 

Canvasing the Front — The 
fronts of a cloth coat need re- 
inforcement so the coat will 
hold to shape and set smoothly. 
Use tailor's canvas. Use the 
pattern for the front of the coat 
as a guide in cutting the canvas. The 
canvas should cover the coat above the bust 
line, while in the lower portion it should face 
back the front edge for a distance of six 
inches. See Fig. 127. Cut the seam off the 

neck, front and lower edge of the canvas. 

[129] 




Fig. 127 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



Place the canvas on the wrong side of the 
front, a seam's width back from the edge. 
Baste it securely to position. If the front 
of the coat has a lapel, catch the canvas to 
the lapel with padding stitches. See Pad- 
ding Stitches, page 23. 

Taping the Edges. — To prevent stretch- 
ing, tape the front edge of the coat. Use 

thin linen tape about 
one quarter of an inch 
wide. Lay the tape 
on the canvas, and 
catch the tape to the 
canvas and outside 
material, taking a 
stitch first on one side and then on the 
other. At all points hold the outside ma- 
terial and canvas into the tape. See Fig. 128. 
Run the tape at the neck edge, along the roll 
line of the lapel and down the front. After 
the shoulder seams are joined tape the back 
of the coat at the neck. 

The Collar. — An interlining of tailor's 
canvas is needed for the collar. Use the col- 
[ 130] 




Fig. 128 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




Iar pattern as a guide in cutting the canvas, 
cutting off the seam allowance at the outer 
edge. Baste the canvas to the under collar. 
If the collar is a tailored notched collar, 
cover the stand (crescent-shaped portion 
which comes next to the neck) with rows of 
machine stitching. See Fig. 129. Catch the 
canvas to the rest of the collar with padding 
stitches. In soft rolling 
collars catch the canvas 
to the entire collar with 
padding stitches. FlG * l2g 

Joining the Collar and Front Facings to 
the Coat. — After the front of the coat has 
been canvased and taped and the shoulder 
and underarm seams closed, join the under 
collar, reinforced with the canvas, to the 
neck. Press the raw edges of the seam down 
onto the coat. Join the top collar to the 
facing. Then lay the top collar and facing 
on the outside of the coat, along the front 
of the coat, and the under side of the collar. 
Stitch around the outside edges and turn 
the collar into its finished position, and the 

[131] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




facing onto the wrong side of the coat. 

Draw the facing back at the edge until the 
seam is on the wrong side of 
the garment. Baste into posi- 
tion and press. See Fig. 130. 

Staying the Lower Edge. — 
To prevent the lower edge from 
stretching, reinforce it with inch- 
wide strips of tailor's canvas. 
Lay the lower edge of the can- 
vas along the line where the 
bottom of the coat will turn 
up. Catch the canvas to the 

material, taking a stitch, first on one side 

and then on the other. Use care that the 

stitches do not show through onto the right 

side of the goods. Turn the lower edge up 

on the canvas. 

Press and catch 

it into place. See 

Fig. 131. FlG - J 3i 

The Sleeve. — Regulation coat sleeves are 

made in two pieces, the top sleeve having 

slight fullness at the elbow. 
[132] 



Fig. 130 




DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




Sleeves with vents at the back seam should 
have the vents finished before the back 
seams are closed. Stay the lower edge with 
an inch-wide strip of canvas, caught first on 
one side and then on the other. See Fig. 132. 
Usually there is an extension cut on the 
under sleeve at the vent. Face the lower 
edge of the sleeve all the way 
across, letting the facing extend 
above the vent. See Facing, page 
92. Close the back seam and 
press the seams open. Shrink out 
the fullness at the elbow of the 
upper sleeve. See Steaming Out Ease or 
Fullness, page 18. 

Sleeves without vents have the back seams 
closed first. They are stitched all the way to 
the bottom. In this case there should be an 
extension cut on the bottom of the sleeve. 
Stay the bottom of the sleeve with a strip of 
canvas, then turn up the lower edge of the 
sleeve on the canvas and catch it in place. 

Sleeves with cuffs have the seams closed as 
described in sleeves without vents. The 

[133] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



neatest finish is obtained when the seam 
is cut off the lower edge of the sleeve. Stay 
the bottom with canvas. The cuff should 
be cut with an extension to turn back onto 
the wrong side of the sleeve. Reinforce the 
cuff with an interlining of tailor's canvas. 
The canvas interlining should be cut without 
a seam at the top and without the lower 
extension. Close the seams in the outside 
cuff and lining. Baste the interlining to the 
outside cuff, lapping the edges flat at the 
seam, and join the cuff lining to the top of 
the cuff Adjust the cuff to the lower edge 
of the sleeve, tacking the cuff lining to the 
sleeve. Roll the extension at the lower edge 
of the cuff onto the wrong side of the sleeve 
and catch it to the canvas. 

Use the sleeve pattern as a guide to cut 
the sleeve lining. Join the seams in the lin- 
ing and press them open. Turn the sleeve 
wrong side out and slip the lining over it. 
Tack the lining to the sleeve along the seams. 
Turn under the lower edge of the lining and 
fell it over the raw edges at the bottom of 
[134] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 




the sleeve. See Felling, page 22, and Fig. 

133- 

Sew the outside sleeve to the armhole. The 

sleeve lining is left free until the coat lining 
is put in. Pin the sleeve to the 
armhole, so that it hangs in the 
position the arm naturally hangs 
in. Baste it in place and try on 
the coat. If it draws, shift it 
to the front or back until the arm can be 
moved with freedom. 

Lining a Coat. — Use the coat pattern as 
a guide in cutting the lining. 'Allow a pleat 
at the center-back. This is to prevent the 
lining from drawing across the back. Join 
the seams in the lining and pin the lining to 
the coat. Smooth out all wrinkles and tack 
the lining to the coat at the underarm and 
shoulder seams. Baste it in place around 
the armhole. Turn under the edges of the 
lining and pin the lining over the raw edges 
of the coat at the neck, along the back edge 
of the front facing and at the bottom, plac- 
ing the pins about an inch apart. Fell the 

[135] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



lining in place. See Felling, page 22. 
After the coat lining is sewed in bring up 
the sleeve lining, turn under the edges and 
fell the sleeve lining over the raw edges at 
the armhole. 

Unlined Coats. — If the coat is to be un- 
Iined, cut the cloth facing for the front to 
extend across to the armhole, above the bust 
line. Also cut a shoulder yoke for the back. 
Canvas and tape the coat as described be- 
fore. Bind the lower edge of the back yoke 
and the outer edge of the front facing before 
joining to the coat. Join the back yoke to 
the front facing at the shoulder and fell the 
raw edges of the collar over the raw edges of 
the yoke at the back of the coat. Bind the 
raw edges of the underarm seams and the 
lower edge of the coat before turning it up. 
See Binding, page 113. 

The Pressing is Important. — Press each 
piece before it is joined, each seam after it is 
joined, all edges and trimming pieces. It is 
impossible to properly press a coat after it is 
entirely made. See Pressing, page 18. 
[136] 



CHAPTER XII 

FITTING 

The regulation size pattern is made to fit 
an average figure. It is made for a medium 
height of shoulder a medium length of 
waist, and for the figure which stands neither 
over erect nor stooping. If shoulders are 
sloping or square, if the waistline is short 
or long, if the figure is over erect or stooping, 
then changes are necessary in order to secure 
a perfect fit. Where there is any doubt as 
to the fit of a pattern, cut out a test gar- 
ment in cheap muslin. 

How to Fit Sloping Shoulders. — If the 
shoulders slope more than the average, 
wrinkles will appear diagonally from the 
neck to the underarm. To overcome this 
fault, take up the shoulder seam to conform 
to the slope of the shoulder. The seam 
should be taken up deepest at the armhole 
and only the seam allowance at the neck. 

[i37] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



As this makes the armhole smaller, slash the 
material under the arm until the arm can be 
moved with freedom. Do not slash the arm- 
hole too deeply; the seam taken in sewing 
in the sleeve will enlarge it. 

How to Fit Square Shoulders. — If 
shoulders are square the garment will 
wrinkle crosswise below the neck front and 
back. In this case take up the shoulder 
seam, fitting it deepest at the neck, while 
only the regulation seam is taken at the 
armhole. As this makes the neck smaller, 
slash the neck until the garment is com- 
fortable. 

If the Garment is Shortwaisted. — In 
semi-fitted or fitted garments the waistline 
can be made lower by taking up each seam 
a trifle at the point where the waistline 
should be. 

If the Garment is Longwaisted. — When 
wrinkles appear crosswise above the waist- 
line, the garment is too longwaisted. Take 
up the shoulder seams until the wrinkles dis- 
appear. Unless the shoulders are sloping 
[138] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



or square, the shoulder seams should be 
taken up the same amount at all points. 
This makes the armhole smaller. Slash 
under the arms. If" you know the pattern 
is Iongwaisted, lay pleats in the pattern 
pieces parallel to the waistline and suffi- 
ciently deep to take up the wrinkles before 
cutting the goods. 

If the Figure is Overly Erect. — When a 
person stands with shoulders thrown back 
and chest out and the garment was made for 
a straight figure, then the garment will be 
out of balance. It will poke out in front, 
wrinkles will appear diagonally from the 
bustline to the underarm and it will hang 
away from the back of the neck. To secure 
a perfect fit, it will be necessary to cut a 
test in muslin; fit the garment, correct the 
pattern and re-cut the pieces. Rip the under- 
arm seams of the muslin and let the pieces 
fall naturally, add a V-shaped piece at the 
underarm and mark where the underarm 
seam should come. This throws extra full- 
ness in the front of the garment. Fit out 

C 139] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



this fullness in the side-front seam. If the 
garment is made without a seam, split the 
piece parallel to the center-front up to 
the bustline, then across to the armhole. Keep 
the edges together at the bustline and lap 
onto the fullness at the lower edge. This 
enlarges the armhole a trifle. 

If the Figure is Stooping. — When a per- 
son stoops or, in other words, the figure is 
tilted forward, and the pattern is made for 
a straight figure, then the garment will also 
be out of balance. This time wrinkles will 
appear at the back diagonally from the 
lower portion of the shoulder blades to the 
underarm, the garment will poke out in 
the back and is apt to bind at the back of 
the neck. To overcome these faults, cut a 
test in muslin, correct the muslin garment, 
make the same changes in the pattern, and 
re-cut the- pieces. Rip the muslin at the 
underarm seams. Let the pieces fall into 
their natural position and insert a V-shaped 
portion at the underarm, re-marking where 
the underarm seam will come. Fit out the 
C 140] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



surplus goods at the bottom in the back 
seams, or if the back is one piece, dart out 
the extra goods at center-back in the pattern. 
Should this make the garment narrow across 
the back at the shoulders, add a trifle either 
side at the armhole. 

Out Sizes. — If the chest is broad in pro- 
portion to the back or the back wide in 
proportion to the chest, buy two sizes of 
patterns, using one for the front and one 
for the back of the garment. 

What Makes the Neck of a Garment 
Stand Away from the Figure. — When the 
neck of a garment bulges away from the 
form it is because it has been stretched. 
Rip off the collar, run a gather thread around 
the neck. Try on the garment and draw up 
the neck just enough so it lies close to the 
form. If care is used in distributing the 
fullness it will not be noticed after the collar 
is sewed on. 

If the Front Edges of a Coat Hang Apart 
When the Coat is Unbottoned. — This may 
be caused by the garment being out of 

[ 141] 



DRESSMAKING MADE EASY 



balance. See 7/ the Figure is Stooping, page 
140. Another reason for it is that the front 
edges are stretched. Remove the front fac- 
ing and tape the edges, holding the material 
into the tape. \ See Taping, page 130. 

Skirts that Twist. — All seams of a skirt 
should be stitched from the top down to 
give the best hang. If one seam is stitched 
upward and one down, the skirt is apt to 
twist. 



[ 142] 



INDEX 



INDEX 

PAGE 

Adding Pleats to a Gored Skirt 125 

Adding Reach Room to a Sleeve 88 

Allowing for a Raised Waistline in a Skirt 124 

Back Stitch 20 

Basting in Long and Short Stitch 21 

Binding 113 

Blind Closings 48 

Blind Stitching 22 

Bound Buttonholes 1 1 1 

Box Pleats _ 40 

Box Pleat Closings 50 

Buttonholes 24 

Canvasing Coats 129 

Casings 93 

Closings 46 

Closings at Shoulder, Armhole and Underarm ... 54 

Closings under Tucks 49 

Coat Collars 130 

Coat Facings 131 

Coat Making 129 

Coat Sleeves 132 

Collar Bands 100 

Collars 98 

Continuous Facings 57 

Cording 114 

E 145] 



INDEX 



Cord Shirring 44 

Cuffs 79 

Cutting . . 17 

Darts 92 

Double Box Pleats 41 

Double Stitched Seams 33 

Dress Collars . 98 

Dress Sleeves 89 

Facings 92 

Facings and Extensions . j 47 

Felling 22 

Fitting 137 

French Seams 32 

Gage for Spacing Tucks 39 

Hemming Skirts 109 

Hems 46 

Hemstitched Seams 35 

Hemstitching with an Ordinary Sewing Machine. 1 15 

How to Fit Sloping Shoulders 137 

How to Fit Square Shoulders 138 

How to Hang Your Own Skirt 127 

How to Use a Block Skirt Pattern 123 

How to Use a Block Waist Pattern 118 

If the Figure is Overly Erect 139 

If the Figure is Stooping 140 

If the Front Edges of a Coat Hang Apart 141 

If the Garment is Long Waisted 138 

If the Garment is Short Waisted 138 

Inside Belts 106 

Inverted Box Pleats 42 

Lace Insertion and Edging 116 

Lap Felled Seams 34 

[146] 



INDEX 



Laying the Pattern on the Goods 12 

Lining a Coat 135 

Lining Trimming Pieces 95 

Marking Around the Pattern and Indicating Per- 
forations 15 

Marking for Insertion or Edging 123 

Open Seams 31 

Out Sizes 141 

Overcasting 23 

Padded Buttonholes 26 

Padding Stitch 23 

Patch Pockets 69 

Pinking 31 

Pin Tucks 38 

Piping 112 

Plackets 46 

Pleating a Straight Skirt. . . 127 

Pleats 39 

Pockets 69 

Pressing 18 

Proper Tools 11 

Rounded End Buttonholes 26 

Running Stitch 20 

Seam Beading 36 

Seams 31 

Sewing on Buttons 27 

Side Pleats 39 

Side Tucks 38 

Simulated Box Pleats 41 

Skirt Plackets 59 

Skirts that Twist 142 

Shrinking Materials 9 

C 147 3 



INDEX 



Shirring 42 

Shirt Sleeves 89 

Slashed Closings in Infants' Dresses 56 

Slash Pockets 69 

Sleeves 76 

Sleeve Vents 76 

Slot Seams 34 

Staying the Lower Edge of a Coat 132 

Tailor's Tacks 29 

Taping a Coat 130 

Testing a Sleeve to See if it Will Twist 87 

The Fly on Boys' Trousers 63 

The Top of Boys' Trousers no 

To Add a Hem 121 

To Add a Yoke to a Waist 118 

To Add Tucks 120 

To Cut True Bias 18 

To Make a Skirt Smaller 124 

To Make a Sleeve Smaller 83 

To Make Fewer Gores in a Skirt 123 

To Match Plaids 15 

To Measure a Sleeve 83 

To Miter Corners 95 

To Lengthen a Sleeve 87 

To Put in Fullness 119 

To Prevent Buttonholes from Puckering in Sheer 

Fabrics 26 

To Remove Shine from the Surface of Material . . 19 

To Set Colors n 

To Shorten a Sleeve 86 

To Space Buttonholes Evenly 24 

To Steam Out Fullness 18 

[148] 



INDEX 



To Take Out Fullness at the Bottom of a Waist . 121 

To Widen a Sleeve 85 

Trouser Pockets 75 

Tuck Shirring 44 

Tucks 38 

Underdrawers 67 

Underpressing 18 

Unlined Coats 136 

Waistbands 106 

Welt Pocket 72 

What Makes a Garment Stand away from the 

Neck 141 

Yokes 96 

Zigzag Basting 21 



C 149] 



